I started a thread in the old forum with Bully discs machined to fit DXL clutches. I ran mine this weekend at Barnesville with great success. Just wanted to pass this along so those who can't find DXL discs have an option.

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These were taken after the weekend. The gap only opened .004 on the new discs.

HELP! I'm trying to take the flywheel of my mc8 and i have no clue what I'm doing, and I'm in a time crunch.

i got the nut off, but can't budge the flywheel off the crank.

do i need a flywheel puller?

thanks!

Vico

Hi All,

I posted some photos of my unrestored Swoopster Sprint orig. owned by the family on the site this morning if anyone is interested in looking at one. It is located in the vintage karts identification section.
Thanks Mike

I thought that we had discussed this on the forum before but I can't seem to find the thread. I remember that someone had tracked down a similar stud at McMaster Carr or some other supplier. I wanted to see if I could track them down locally. Does anyone have that info available?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Blaine

I need an  ORIGINAL GEM West Bend V-12 directional manifold base is great condition. Will consider a Solt manifold for dual HL carbs for the 820/610 instead. Thank you. Ted

Hello all, I was hoping to get some feedback on what you think would work best to mount a third bearing support on a margay Panther x with the oddly shaped rails. 

Let me know that you think!

Vico

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I don't know if we have to sign up again ....but looks like a few old members have checked in !
 

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Hello Everyone,

As you are well aware the forum has been down for several weeks now.  There was a problem with the company that hosts our website and unfortunately they corrupted the forum database.  We are working on setting up a new forum so let me know any suggestions you have for what we can do to make it easier and more user friendly. 

We do have a backup of the forum [url=http://www.briansantee.com/vintage]here from earlier this year so that data will not be lost forever.  You can browse this forum but will not be able to make any posts to it since it was just a snapshot of the forum.

Thanks -Kevin


Link : http://www.vintagekarts.com/forum/view_t...forum_id=1

                                                                  

Did Christensen or Solt ever make a V-16 manifold for the 610/820? If so, who has one to sell? Thanks. Ted

Paul E. Martin Jr.
[url=https://www.facebook.com/groups/1394603367499268/#][/url] 
I was at Barnesville again this year to share the Barnesville experience with old and new friends. I was made aware of a self induced brake problem that has been around as long as we have had hydraulic brakes regardless of brand. I want to write a quick instruction here on the proper way to install the nylon high pressure brake line to the master cylinder and calipers. First rule of thumb is to be sure the tubing is HIGH PRESSURE thick wall tubing which should be 2000 PSI tub...ing. We use only the cone style ferrules in our MCP brakes but there are still the old style barrel ferrules out there. The caps for barrel ferrules are tapered in the top of the cap to match the taper of the barrel. This cap can also be used with the cone ferrules but you cannot use dedicated flat inside top caps with barrel ferrules. My recommendation is cone style ferrules only for the brakes. Save the barrel style for your throttle linkages etc. Now that we know the proper pieces, on with installation. First off, be sure to cut the line length so that there is ample slack to work with but not so much that you have to worry about the line getting below the frame rails. I always use plenty of tie wraps to objects above the rails like nerf bars or seat strutts. Tie wraps around the frame rails quickly get cut by the asphalt in most cases. Now take the line in hand and slip the cap over the line then the cone ferrule with the small end of the taper facing the end of the line. Now push the line all the way into the fitting body. Next slide the ferrule and cone onto the fitting and finger tighten until snug. From there using a good 7/16" open end wrench, tighten one and a half turns (9 flats). Now loosen the cap and remove the line and be sure the line is sticking through the ferrule and the ferrule is clearly pinched onto the line. If all is well, replace and tighten to where you were and turn an additional half turn (3 flats). If done in this manner, there should be no problem with leaks or worry about the line coming out under line pressure. For those running higher horsepower engines and using the brakes to the point of high brake temperatures, I always recommend checking the lines after coming off the track. You should not be able to turn the brake line in the ferrule. Brakes can reach temperatures beyond the temperature range of the line and can settle some inside the ferrule. A one quarter turn to snug the ferrule will usually work from that point on. If that situation becomes a consistent problem, I would recommend switching to stainless steel line. If running the high horsepower karts, it would be prudent to start with the stainless steel line to begin with.
The next step in the brake installation process is bleeding. I'll assume most have their own way of doing that but if anyone would like a tutorial on how to bleed with and without bleeders, just post here and I'll be glad to oblige. Hope this helps someone.

Good advice from the people that make the products that keep us safe......thank you !

Link :  http://mcpbrake.com/

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I just received some parts that Sam Bennett made pretty for me. I won't post pix, as the pieces are out of Sam's normal line. This is just to say a big "Thank you!" to Sam. The talents of the vintage community are amazing.  Ted