i just love using old tilly alky karbs.
BUT they are a pain to get right.

so far i've learned to sand out every flat surface.
to clean them to death and clear all tiny holes.
to remove the adjustment needles a lightly buff them with 000 steel wool.
check all functions and moving parts.

and still i get issues.
so i'm starting a thread for everyone.
eventually all the guys "in the Know" will pipe in and we'll have a good thread for rebuild.
later today i'll post pix of four project tillies and post as i go on rebuilding them.

for now here's an ec birt utube video on pop off pressure
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OaFvtlGzCB8

AND

Tillotson carb tuning - 2 cycle.
This comes from an early, genuine Tillotson factory service brochure.  It still applies today as a great starting point.
                                      ( Go to  .. here ..  if you want a methanol or petrol double pump conversion setup )

Setting up your 2-cycle Tillotson Carburetor.
With today's state of the art motors and stinger type exhaust systems, the following information will help you achieve the desired results that you need from these motors.  Before mounting your Tillotson carburetor check the pulse track from the carb mounting surface and make sure that this track through the carb adapter , gaskets and etc is clear and in line with each other.  
Set the low speed needle at 1+1/2 turns out and the high speed needle at 1+1/8 turns out.   Adjust the throttle stop screw on the carburetor so that it just cushions the butterfly when the throttle valve goes closed.  Do not set the carburetor so that the engine will idle as this will cause the engine to lean out in the corners and anytime you are off the throttle.

Track tuning your Tillotson Carburetor.
If the carburetor settings are too rich ( too much fuel ) the engine will falter at that section of the track corresponding to that particular range of the carburetor settings.  A spluttering or irregular firing sound will be heard.   This sound is also called  4 stroking.  If this sound occurs at low speed while at full throttle, such as coming out of a tight turn, it is usually due to the Low Speed adjusting needle being turned out too far.  If the sound occurs at high speed while at full throttle, such as on a straightaway section of the track, it is due to the High Speed adjusting needle being out too far.  In either case, needle adjustments must be made inwards gradually, in approximately 1/8 turn increments.  It is best to adjust the Low Speed needle first for best overall low speed performance and then follow with the final high speed adjustment.
If the engine does not 4 stroke or give the too rich firing sound, any place on the track, it could be because the engine is running too lean ( not enough fuel ).  This is easily checked by opening the needles out in 1/8 turn increments until the engine  4 strokes.    In general, the optimum performance and engine reliability will occur at carburetor settings just slightly leaner than the point where the engine will begin to 4 stroke.   

If you find that the engine will not chop off clean or is slow to come back from high rpm's when you lift the throttle, this is a sign that the pop-off pressure in the carb is too high.   The cure for this is to lower the pop-off pressure.   If you experience loading-up problems, this is a sign that the pop-off pressure may be too low.  The cure for this is to raise the pop-off pressure.  As a general rule of thumb, the pop-off pressure will be from 8 to 12 lbs,   and is a tuning factor that you can adjust for  the altitude of your racetrack and the type of racing that you do. 

                              


dave

This will get updated but for now.
i never formally raced back in the day.
my family was simply too poor in many ways to spend money freely.
with five kids you get the idea.
anyway i always wanted a kart racing play whatever and tried building one many times.
my skills were lacking and by the time i could build things cars came into the picture.
i bought a 1965 mustang at 14 years old and spent years buying and selling muscle car relics to afford building one of my own.
back then a decent car was 1,000 bux and parts cars were 25-200 so we went through alot of iron.
later on i bought my first harley and never looked back.
years forward the "biker" scene for yuppies was a growing thing and just sucked the fun outta riding for me.
at the time i was building bikes from other people junk for fun.
then about 2004 my nephew showed up at the shop with what was left of an old go kart.
he asked us to get it running.
when i went to look at it i decided it was a pos and we just found one that was intact for him to ride.
so it just sat there.
one day we were sipping an adult beverage or two and the old two engined go kart was brought up.
i maintained even though it was heavy as heck it must've been raced.
a dispute with a minor wager later i was on the net trying to prove my side.
MONTHS later i found a site vintage karting and eventually id'd the karts as a 1959/60 sears racer kart.
never did collect on the bet maybe i should??

anyway i was FASINATED with these tiny racers.
like everything else i do led to being obsessed and i read EVERY post on any forum or book i could find.
that rapidly led to me buying one and as anyone knows if you have two vintage karts THEY BREED!!!
now ten or so years later i have so many i won't count them anymore.
enough for now
dave l.

David or Brian - can you tell me how to fix my avatar picture please?  I don't understand why it's sideways when the original is correct.    Thank you, Sterling

    its going to be hard to compete with carl on the fox front but here is my entry.
1963 fox go boy

(01-18-2016, 06:12 PM)thomas kelley Wrote: its going to be hard to compete with carl on the fox front but here is my entry.
1963 fox go boy

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Fox #2

(01-18-2016, 04:58 PM)carl haydt Wrote: Fox #2
[/url][url=http://s260.photobucket.com/user/modified32/media/Fox%20build%20for%20the%20kart%20forum/040_zpsbdethwqw.jpg.html]

I'll just be building a couple or three Fox karts starting with one already in progress and one still on the "extras" rack.
 Fox #1

 

guys,
heres some simple directions for each entry posting.
1.post ALL your posts in a single thread.
so if you have updates just put it as a reply to your first post.

2. post links to any video we'll have the utube channel easy link ready shortly and after it's up and running we will want the videos posted on the vintage karts america utube channel.

you of course can also post them on any other channel you like. the purpose of the vintage karts channel is to have as much content as possible in the channel we'll be promoting all over the web. we want to grow vintage karting by raising awareness of it.

3. post at least one update per month.
if you happen to build the kart out and are running it post an event pix or something!!!


more to follow as i think of them
dave l.

        Happy New Year all,
Thought I would try posting a few pictures as it goes along from start to finish my latest Xterminator. Nothing fancy just the parts as they get repaired and go together. Hope it works out.
Later Mike

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Great Idea, Dave. Pop and I were interested in roundy round Early Model Modified racing, and by extension, hot rodding. Pop bought a '32 Ford roadster with an outrageously built OHV Caddie V-12 in it. He began buying Hot Rod, Rod and Custom and Car Craft magazines. Through R&C, we saw some Lynn Wineland articles about karting. Pop had built a quarter midget several years earlier, for the local Ford dealer. I was hired by them to drive it, but QM's bored me, so I gave it up after about three years. Karts really seemed much more interesting, as they turned both directions, and had two cycle engines. When we saw the first Bug, Pop immediately called Tom Pierson and became a dealer in West Melbourne, FL. I got my first dead axle Bug Custom with an A400 in 1958. Pop bought a dual A400 dead axle Bug. I ended up with a dual dead axle Bug with twin E-65's on it. Pop got a late '59 Wasp with an Mc5, and we promptly got outrun by a kid with a Wasp and prototype AH 58 PP. We were already Mac saw dealers, so Pop called Bob McCulloch direct, and in a week, we had a preproduction Mc6 conversion kit. No more getting outrun! I took a dead axle Bug and installed a Reed Eng. live axle kit and sissy plates with pads. I put a VERY early Mc6 on it. It was such a simple kart that it probably weighed 90 pounds all up-even with the heavy Hands wheels. It was very quick, and would beat most dual West Bend 580/700 karts. We progressed from there. I took over the kart dealership in '61 when I turned 17. We added Go Kart in '61, so we had Bug, Go Kart, Clinton, Mac, Homelite and PP to work with. We were Yazoo mower dealers, so we even sold a couple Yazoo Dragsters. We were taught by one of the best engine men in America to build modified Macs, and were very successful. As karting mostly went away in late '63 and '64, I closed the kart shop and went to work for Pop in the lawn mower end of the building. I also ran his hobby shop for him until I went to work at Cape Canaveral in '66. I thank Paul Martin for telling me about the vintage movement in '01. Ted

]WTB looking for a Big J Lancer.....preferably a right hand drive,,would consider as dual...condition not to important..MUST BE A BIG J..dates app 68-72

yes, I know ,I had one , but its the one I gave to Adkins Track to help get it back up and running....I tried to buy it back from the winner but he is a total...a**...he has never seen it , other than when he bought the ticket,,he'll never use it,,,

I know another guy in Fremont that has one,,but he fits the same category.....guess hes waiting for the prices to go back up...