west bend 820's and E bay

[steve welte]

Art, the special bearing are C4. They normally have to be ordered and are a looser bearing than a tight C2 or C3. the special cover is ones I make that are .060 alum so they don't crack like the flimsy factory ones. His stock head was an old Helicoiled head and i had a spare Horstman cast type here.

[Art Romanelli]

Interesting Steve , I would like to see what your shrouds look like. Are you using caged bearings? If they are the loose bearings , why did you change from stock thickness? I thought the loose ones on the bottom end were better. I watched a couple of your Youtube vids the other day. I enjoy watching the build vids as you always add little tips n tricks with the why and why nots , good stuff. Im still learning and dont want to be too annoying as I think a few people would agree I might be.

[steve welte]

Art use the 28 loose bearings. The ones I was talking about are 6204C4 main bearings on the ends of the crank. I'll get a pic of the cover. They aren't fun to make but aren't really hard either.

[Blaine Young]

Hey Blaine, I have seen the girdles made for the 820s , FMS is a maker of one style girdle I have a lead on . The newer 820 blocks seem to have more meat on them , but the Big One event frowns on those engines from what im to understand. Did your .060 820 have a Hortsman head?

No - this was back when 820's were plentiful and most people didn't want to spend a lot of extra money.

Blaine

[Art Romanelli]

Hey Steve , I think a 820 guru told me about those 6204c4 Fag bearings that can be bought at CometKart Sales. Do you machine the I.D. a lil bit to get them to slip fit on there?

[steve welte]

No don't do that. Polish the crank so the bearing are just barely a slip fit. Then you set the end play with a shim behind one or both bearings. Yes the Comet bearings are very nice or in this case these were another brand from Motion Industries.

[Art Romanelli]

What would end gap be, you want some movement, I imagine?

[steve welte]

Pick what you want. .005 , .010. I've seen people set them up with no shims and watched the crank walk back and forth by .030 or more. Just eventually wears on the cranks surface. Not necessary. You can put it together with normal press fit bearings if you want. Just much harder to take apart the next time you pull it down.

[Art Romanelli]

I didnt mind the pressed bearings on my Rokon 820 rebuild , but I would prefer your route with that bearing setup on my next project .I have a set of those crazy expensive alloy rod bolts and was curious what you like to torque them at , I cant remember the torque specs , but it seemed a lil much for the cap , Im not "for sure" , but I torqued em 85-90ish inchlbs.

[ted johnson]

I didnt mind the pressed bearings on my Rokon 820 rebuild , but I would prefer your route with that bearing setup on my next project .I have a set of those crazy expensive alloy rod bolts and was curious what you like to torque them at , I cant remember the torque specs , but it seemed a lil much for the cap , Im not "for sure" , but I torqued em  85-90ish inchlbs.

I bought a preset WIHA torque wrench that's in NM, but is equal to 112 In./Lbs. in English. I asked Bonbright, and he's fine with that number when using the 310/320KSI screws. Been using it now for a long time. Probably time to get it recalibrated. Don't torque any other type of screw to that number, and don't go any higher on the Bonbright bolts. The later rod cap is fine at that figure as well. Ted