08-14-2017, 06:02 PM (This post was last modified: 08-14-2017, 06:10 PM by ted johnson.)
(08-14-2017, 05:34 PM)Brad Rose Wrote: Steve, if you have a picture of your mount you could share please post it. Sounds like a good idea.
Thanks Jim for the tips on the lock nuts. I still need to drill my front axles and I did buy about six of those lock collars so I'll follow your advise on them.
Ted, I would love to have one of Greggs tanks they look great. I Missed out on an old tank that had some dents in it a couple weeks ago. It didn't have a cap but he had one for it if I got it.
Brad, if you want to get with Greg, PM me and I will give you his phone. You can also reach him at Greg's Speed Shop. www.gregsspeedshop.com Ted
08-14-2017, 07:57 PM (This post was last modified: 08-14-2017, 08:05 PM by Jim Waltz.)
Brad, when you drill the spindles for your front wheels, be sure to purchase low-height (aka, "shear") castle nuts.
A lot of the old spindles were kinda short, and a standard castle nut may not allow enough room for a clip or cotter pin.
The low-height castle nuts are available at Aircraft Spruce among other places, and are referred to as "AN" hardware.
It is also a good idea to buy some of the "light" AN washers as well. These are about half the thickness of a standard washer, and are great when you are trying to get a castle nut positioned just right, or are short on space.
I keep a full set of AN washers in my tool box so I can handle just about any assembly issue.
Jim
Yes I do have the low height castle nuts but I would like some additional washers. The kart has AN hardware throughout. Nice and close tolerance fit.
NAS1149 series of flat washers are direct replacements for the old AN960 series, and are much more quickly available from McMaster Carr than from Aircraft Spruce. The only difficulty with the NAS 1149 series is that the dash number system is harder to remember! They're also available in the thin style as well as in stainless. TJ
One of the things I like about Aircraft Spruce when compared to McMaster Carr, is that there is no minimum quantity purchase with Aircraft Spruce. With McMaster Carr you are stuck with fixed quantities, sometimes quite large. I buy from both sources.
Here is what I didn't say. You have to decide what you really want your kart for or to do. then you decide if you want it to be correct as the factory did it. Now once you decide those two things then you need to think further. Many early ideas were and methods weren't the best. Things like throttle linkage, engine mounts, and brakes are a few. If you really want to race your kart and have few problems then you may want to consider things like inboard clutches, more modern sleeve type cables and better brakes. As for the mounts I hate the ones inside the rails that try to force you to use an outboard clutch. I also hate center mounted engines that you can't reach anything at any time. So most of the time my mounts will straddle the rail and i;ll use modern brakes and sleeve throttle hookups with compression fittings. Like Fox news I'll suggest and you decide.
I still have the original Pro/E CAD file I made for Brad's replica factory swing mount. It'd be a piece of cake to lengthen the legs 3/8" so he could straddle the frame rail. The mount would then still look factory. Brad's already gone to a much better brake and disc on his Kat I'm like you, Steve. Just because I prefer functionality over originality doesn't mean that everyone does. As you say: to each his own. I think he's done super work on the kart, and I'm willing to do what I can to help get it finished! Ted
When I finally get it done, I think you will like my 2nd Edition Kalifornia Nyke.
The kart came with a Palmini hydraulic brake unit. And since this kart is going to be a "Palmini Special", I am sticking with Palmini brakes.
However..........., since I will be running dual 5-Port, V700 West Bends, and because the Palmini brake is reputed to be a "weak" brake, I have decided to use TWO Palmini hydraulic brake units. It will require some hand-made custom linkage to equalize the pull on the levers. I think it will work quite well, AND be period correct. Since the axle just outboard of the fram will be occupied with brake discs, I will also be going with center drive (crank PTO's facing each other. Because of that and my desire to not break sprockets or chains if I out a wheel off, I will also be running a jackshaft below the frame. It will be an interesting kart when done.
Film at 11....., or 12........, or 1......., or whenever.
08-15-2017, 06:37 PM (This post was last modified: 08-15-2017, 06:42 PM by Brad Rose.)
I appreciate all the information you guys have shared. The goal of this kart for me is to give it the appearance or close to of a 62 Alley Kat. So from there I wanted to add modern parts for performance so I have went with MCP brakes, shielded throttle linkage that is based off of Steve's design. I added the tube gussets behind the front axle for more support. I added the third bearing support which added a little more structural support. I did go with all aluminum for the seat and floor pan unlike the originals used a welded in sheet metal. I'm going for now with the Azusa Tri star wheels with new vintage speed tires. Also the Nassau panel is a copy of my original and the paint is the closest match in ppg's data base to the original alley Kat paint color. So now I'm to the point with assembling the rear of the kart. Steve's idea of using an inboard clutch probably is a better idea. Seams to me there would be less of a load on the crank. I could go with the mount over the frame but an 1/8 of an inch clearance is close. So inboard the frame is fine for now. Anyway thanks again for all of your advise and ideas. When it's done I would like to have it driven by Steve or someone with experience so they can give me feedback on it's performance.
