(08-12-2017, 07:12 PM)Brad Rose Wrote: Looks like it clears by about an 1/8 inch. I think for now I'm going to the right side with it. I could always change it later.
Another question for you Ted. Do you use a castle nut or a nylon insert lock nut on all of your axles?
Castle or slotted nut, Brad. Sometimes you have to belt sand the back face of the nut, or use a thin machine shim (McMaster Carr) to get the nut slots to line up with the cotter pin hole when the axle nut is tight. Ted
I've used mounts on my Darts that I ran inboards on. I made the mounts so hang clear out over the rail in what would appear no man's land. I did use a 5/16" base for no flex. Your using an outboard so that helps you out a bunch. Really the key is in having a solid base.
Steve,
I thought about making my own mounts but I'm about fabbed out. It takes a lot of work putting one of these karts together. I know where there might be a GEM base mount so I think I'll go that route. I'll keep your ideas in mind if I do build my own later on. I really like how you build your mounts with the motor mounted at the stuffer end.
Ted I got the nuts today. Do you know what size bits you used.
I just changed up how I do the stuffer mounts. I have now made them like the early sidewinders. 2 slots for 3/8" bolts up and down movement. then I make a 5/8" thick alum base that bolts to the bottom of the engine. This has the 2 bolts in it that go through the steel mount. Don't break the stuffer seal this way.
08-13-2017, 09:54 PM (This post was last modified: 08-13-2017, 10:02 PM by Jim Waltz.)
Brad,
While castle nuts were used in years past, the truth is you can never get a castle nut tight against the wheel so that it holds the wheel against the axle step.
While it may not seem like a big deal, what happens is the wheel will then work against the axle, causing a thing called "fretting corrosion", which will eventually damage the wheels and the axle.
I use nylock nuts on all my vintage karts with a safety clip. I tighten the nylock nut to about 150 ft-lbs, and I check the wheels periodically to make sure that they are not wobbling.
Also, don't forget to use split axle collars on each side of the swing mount. One of our illustrious members showed up at Stockton a few years ago and could not figure out why he would throw his chain every time he went out on the track.
Fortunately I had a couple of spare 1" locking collars, so we got him fixed up right on the spot.
Finally, Teddy's center mount engine is great, but he does usually run a floor-mounted tank. If you are usding a seat-back, bubble tank it may interfere with the engine/mount location.
Jim's certainly right about the floor mount tank. Glenn (Bubba) Davis makes beautiful repop Palmini floor tanks. Unfortunately, they're quite small; not enough for a thirsty alky West Bend. Greg Gouveia to the rescue. His large repop Palmini floor tank does the job handsomely. TJ
Steve, if you have a picture of your mount you could share please post it. Sounds like a good idea.
Thanks Jim for the tips on the lock nuts. I still need to drill my front axles and I did buy about six of those lock collars so I'll follow your advise on them.
Ted, I would love to have one of Greggs tanks they look great. I Missed out on an old tank that had some dents in it a couple weeks ago. It didn't have a cap but he had one for it if I got it.
