Pull starting

[Terry Bentley]

Other options for remote starters is a modern chainsaw. Ditch the bar and clutch, then set it up for a pulley. It was not uncommon to see a Mac chainsaw at the track starting a Mc kart engine.

Originally on the 12 volt battery types, you would locate an old 6 volt Ford starter. They were plentiful then and really not too hard to find these days. 20's thru 1955 car and truck had a 5/8" straight shaft with bendix. Remove it, slide a pulley on and add handles or mount on a two wheel dolly with 12 volt battery secured below. Instant Mac engine starter.

Down sides to belt starters is the bearing pocket in side cover will loosen up over time from pulling back too hard on belt to get motor first turning over.. On newer style starters, with socket or hex, it is very easy to break the threaded end of crank off. Usually by letting weight of starter ride down on crank will easily do it.

[steve welte]

Hey Vince. You break the cover from the force needed. Often you need to have a foot on a nerf bar or something as you can yank the entire kart off the ground. Just invest in a good starter.

[Vince Rosanelli]

Thanks, Steve! Based upon that visual you helped create, I'll certainly go the starter route. I've got a plug in style starter I use for a KT100 engine I have. I wonder if that can be modified in any way to use on the Mac? I also had the very kind and generous and neighborly Mr. Young offer to lend me one of his v-belt starters. I'll look it over too and notate how to duplicate it. Thanks again for all your help and everyone else's...

[MARKTomasic]

what kinda carb sir ..if its a small flat back set the arm .040 under flush ..try that .. mine all work good like that with low about 3/4 on final adjust and high 1 out final ..got to set carb when good and warm ..might be little lean when you fire it cold but I just hand choke it couple times till mine gets up to temp and calm,s down .. lol..

Sorry it's a tillotson carburetor.

[ted johnson]

By the way, Mark, and any others who may not be familiar with setting up a Tillotson for either gas or methanol, here's a link to the EC catalog. I don't have the skill to cut out all the stuff you won't need, but the last few pages in the PDF will definitely help. I made my own gage for setting fulcrum arm height as measured below the gasket flange, but I do use EC's popoff pump and springs.
https://eccarburetors.com/pdf/Tillotson_catalog.pdf
BTW, there's a good exploded diagram in there showing the assemcly order of the carb parts. Once a year, it is a good idea to replace not only the diaphragms, fuel inlet screen (silver for gas, g0ld for alky), but also the little O-rings on the high and low speed needles. DO NOT LOSE the little washer between the adjustment spring and the O-ring. Lube the threads of the needles and the O=rings with WD-40 before putting the O-rings onto the needles. Use WD-wo on all the gaskets and diaphragms before assembly, but don't have them dripping wet. I just rub some on with my fingers. Good luck. My carbs never give issues when I use these instructions. A hint: If you get to the track and your carb will not pump fuel up from the tank, it's usually a stuck inlet needle. You can pop it loose by attaching the popoff pump hose to the plastic fuel inlet nipple on the carb and giving it a few pumps until the needle pops loose. That way you don't have to disassemble the carb stack. I hope this helps. Ted