09-23-2016, 11:30 AM
Chris Brown,
DAVE,
thank you very much. I am very glad you helped out with all that info. I am taking the advice of replacing all the bolts, and am relived that you supplied all the info i need to just goto the store and pick them out. If i tried to do that it would have taken some time at the store pulling the right ones.
thanks for the torque specs also, i recently purchased a torque converter, I had to hold off on the micrometer this week but i can wait and get it next week.
I was wondering if you guys use a certain type of paint that will stay on better than others?
i am going to attempt to remove the camshaft from the shroud tonight, i picked up a heat gun and hoping that goes well
i counted 24 needle bearings so thats A PLUS
Dennis Turk,
Hi Dave
What I have found with Mc engines over the last forty or so years is Mc used different paint at different times. I have had Mc parts that stripped clean with one coat of Mr Muscle oven cleaner and others that I am still trying to figure out how to get the paint off. I think Mac used some catalyzed paint on some of the saws. Most of the original kart engine parts strip rather easily. I know I have three fan shrouds from saws that bead blasting oven cleaning and even Jacco stripper wont take the paint off. These I have just set aside as a lost cause.
Turk
Grumpy Dave.
i've found more that are baked on hard than not.
i use fine recycled crushed glass media and it usually does the job.
it's so fine the dust collector pulls it in pretty fast.
i end up having to retrieve it from the dust bag fairly regular to save on expencises
will try oven cleaner on next set of five mc250-mc49 converts.
a regular house oven set at about 300 degrees is how i heat all my motor parts.
the opposite part i toss in the freezer and they usually slip together nicely then lock solid.
work time is about 15 seconds which is plenty.
only caution is make sure no women are around as they seem to think ovens and freezers are ONLY FOR FOOD blah blah blah.
sane goes for the odd parts on the kitchen table ect ect ect.
aaaand leave a time window to clear out any odd fumes too if you wanna have deniability.
one REALLY important thing.
on your con rod cap and main rod theres a little bump on one corner.
if you don't match the bump to the bump the rod will fail within seconds of firing the motor.
if you're confused say so and i'll post some more pix.
dave
Dennis Turk
Some info for you guys if you don't know this. steel and stainless you heat to bed it. For aluminum especially castings you freeze it. Yes freeze your aluminum castings to straighten bent cooling fins and such. We did work for Boeing aircraft a few years ago and we had sheet metal parts that had to be frozen to bend the tight radius they wanted. If you did not freeze the sheet metal it would crack when it was ran through the press break frozen it would bend like butter and never crack. Remember this guys.
Turk
SteveO,
Dave,
Tal-Strip in the aerosol can will take the hard Mac paint right off... along with your skin if you touch it and lungs if you breat it.
Very effective stripper but USE WITH GREAT CARE.
Steve O'Hara
Chris Brown,
thanks for all the advice guys.
i think i know what you mean about the bumps dave, i will surely ask for pics if i need them, thanks for the offer.
Im trying to find where i saved the instructions from someone here on pulling out that bearing thats on the shaft. i have the heat gun, when i heat it will it simply slide out or does it need to be tapped, or beat out?
I never hear of freezing no aluminium but thats pretty cool, ill try that if i need to do some aluminium fixen.
thanks again guys for everything, i dont think i would be anywhere near this far along without you guys, and im sure something would have been broken by now
Kurt Rodgers,
If it has been mention yet, to get the needle bearings back in, use Vasoline or similar petroleum jelly. With the piston and rod in the cylinder smear a light coat into the rod and cap. The needles bearings will "stick" to the Vasoline. Assemble the rod and cap, torque as specified. You can leave the Vasoline clear through fire up. It will melt as soon as gas hits it. Or you can wash away with brake kleen and the coat with oil.
Chris Brown,
I don't think it was mentioned, thanks though I was sweatin putting them back in.
Ted Johnson,
SteveO is spot-on about the Tal-Strip aerosol remover. I found that some of our spray can primers will not dissolve under the Tal-Strip, but everything else does. It has become very hard to find nowdays. I believe Mar Hyde has stopped making it. I managed to find a couple cans that were on someone's shelf, so I'm hoarding it. Remember, it WILL bite you if you get it on you or breathe it in! TJ
Mark Franzen,
A word of caution here.... I was so excited to hear about this product that I just had to go get some right away. Wife wasn't home so I left a note.... She wasn't happy when I got home... I should have proof read and added the word paint before stripper.
Honey..
One of the guys just told me about a new stripper so I just ran to town to see if I could get me some. Be back in an hour...
Brian Thomas,
DO NOT USE hardware store bolts ... Most are cheap china crap . Spend the extra couple of bucks and get them at McMaster Carr
Ted Johnson
OOOOKAY!
BTW, I actually did find some advertised on the web, so maybe you'll be in luck. It only does a fair job on powder coat, and a pretty good job on the Mac paint. I had an original Mc6 shroud that not all the paint came off from. The same was true with the Mc6 back plate and stuffer. I didn't get to try it on the crankcase, as the paint had been bead blasted when I got the engine to rebuild. Eastwood once had a VERY good powder remover in their DeKote (DeCote?) pink slimy stuff. They took the smaller quantities off the market, so you can get it only in large containers. TJ
Mark Franzen
Thanks for the info Ted... I'll order them on line from now on. I better be careful when I tell my wife "If any strippers show up on the front door step, let me know."
Ted Johnson
Amen to Brian's post. I think I'm singlehandedly keeping McMaster Carr in business! I bought Gr. 8 studs from the local New Mexico hardware store several years ago to mount the 101 to the side plate on the Swoopster. Broke the first one off just torqueing it down. Never again. TJ
tom dandes
Try soaking in good old dot 3 brake fluid for three to five days (it won't hurt plastics) and will remove most paints.
Or "purple power cleaner". I buy it by the gallon at the local wally mart and five gallon jugs at advance auto (25 dollars). I use it in my parts washer because it's supposed to be inviro safe. It says "do not use with aluminum" but I've never seen any issues with it. After a couple of days immursed in the washer it will blister or leave the paint runny. You can use a brush to remove paint. Caution it will blister or burn your hands if you work with it long enough so wash with water after.
Chris Brown
actually last night i used some brake cleaner spray to get the grit and grime off the engine shroud and noticed that the paint started to bubble off. i didnt have enought soak it overnightlike you suggested but im gonna go buy a bottle, I think i might rather do that than bead blast the parts mainly because the beads cost more and i dont wanna have to worry about getting beads in the motor. dont want anything getting in the way of this being ready by xmas. and i usually find a way to mess something up if there is room for error
Im baking me up some painted metal for lunch, so far the wife hasnt asked whats cooking yet, 45 more minutes and im home free if she dosnt notice.
David Luciani
YOU'RE DEAD if she does.
women do carry on about stoves and oven being for food only!!!
yeesssh.
dave
Chris Brown
I was able to finish them off without being found. going to slap a few more coats on them now. i did have a problem with the recoil housing/motor cover when i hit it in a small area that i had missed last night it kinda bubbled up a bit. anybody know why??? its out in the cold so maybe that had something to do with it
I learned a long time ago to call strippers, Paint remover. no matter how i tell the wife or what i tell her its for once she hears the word stripper shes only thinking one thing. and then i end up having company on the way to the hardware store.
cooking parts i just painted is a great idea dave, thank you very much for telling me that. made my day when they came out not sticky and not as easily chipable, before if i even brushed something the paint would come off kinda
Grumpy Dave,
Oh Oh sounds like a bad bound.
i assumed you'd been told to use primer first.
no biggy i've tried both ways and results seem about the same.
if you do prime parts us a nice self etcher , white is my favorite for yellow.
also many times the bare metal is embedded with oil from the saw.
a good before step is baking parts a few hours to drive out oil from the pores.
again not critical the paint seems to chip pretty easy no matter what.
of course i'm more about use then shelf queens so that may be a factor.
dave
DAVE,
thank you very much. I am very glad you helped out with all that info. I am taking the advice of replacing all the bolts, and am relived that you supplied all the info i need to just goto the store and pick them out. If i tried to do that it would have taken some time at the store pulling the right ones.
thanks for the torque specs also, i recently purchased a torque converter, I had to hold off on the micrometer this week but i can wait and get it next week.
I was wondering if you guys use a certain type of paint that will stay on better than others?
i am going to attempt to remove the camshaft from the shroud tonight, i picked up a heat gun and hoping that goes well
i counted 24 needle bearings so thats A PLUS
Dennis Turk,
Hi Dave
What I have found with Mc engines over the last forty or so years is Mc used different paint at different times. I have had Mc parts that stripped clean with one coat of Mr Muscle oven cleaner and others that I am still trying to figure out how to get the paint off. I think Mac used some catalyzed paint on some of the saws. Most of the original kart engine parts strip rather easily. I know I have three fan shrouds from saws that bead blasting oven cleaning and even Jacco stripper wont take the paint off. These I have just set aside as a lost cause.
Turk
Grumpy Dave.
i've found more that are baked on hard than not.
i use fine recycled crushed glass media and it usually does the job.
it's so fine the dust collector pulls it in pretty fast.
i end up having to retrieve it from the dust bag fairly regular to save on expencises
will try oven cleaner on next set of five mc250-mc49 converts.
a regular house oven set at about 300 degrees is how i heat all my motor parts.
the opposite part i toss in the freezer and they usually slip together nicely then lock solid.
work time is about 15 seconds which is plenty.
only caution is make sure no women are around as they seem to think ovens and freezers are ONLY FOR FOOD blah blah blah.
sane goes for the odd parts on the kitchen table ect ect ect.
aaaand leave a time window to clear out any odd fumes too if you wanna have deniability.
one REALLY important thing.
on your con rod cap and main rod theres a little bump on one corner.
if you don't match the bump to the bump the rod will fail within seconds of firing the motor.
if you're confused say so and i'll post some more pix.
dave
Dennis Turk
Some info for you guys if you don't know this. steel and stainless you heat to bed it. For aluminum especially castings you freeze it. Yes freeze your aluminum castings to straighten bent cooling fins and such. We did work for Boeing aircraft a few years ago and we had sheet metal parts that had to be frozen to bend the tight radius they wanted. If you did not freeze the sheet metal it would crack when it was ran through the press break frozen it would bend like butter and never crack. Remember this guys.
Turk
SteveO,
Dave,
Tal-Strip in the aerosol can will take the hard Mac paint right off... along with your skin if you touch it and lungs if you breat it.
Very effective stripper but USE WITH GREAT CARE.
Steve O'Hara
Chris Brown,
thanks for all the advice guys.
i think i know what you mean about the bumps dave, i will surely ask for pics if i need them, thanks for the offer.
Im trying to find where i saved the instructions from someone here on pulling out that bearing thats on the shaft. i have the heat gun, when i heat it will it simply slide out or does it need to be tapped, or beat out?
I never hear of freezing no aluminium but thats pretty cool, ill try that if i need to do some aluminium fixen.
thanks again guys for everything, i dont think i would be anywhere near this far along without you guys, and im sure something would have been broken by now
Kurt Rodgers,
Quote:Chris Brown wrote,
not sure how ill ever get those all back in properlly but i figure ill worry about that when the time comes
If it has been mention yet, to get the needle bearings back in, use Vasoline or similar petroleum jelly. With the piston and rod in the cylinder smear a light coat into the rod and cap. The needles bearings will "stick" to the Vasoline. Assemble the rod and cap, torque as specified. You can leave the Vasoline clear through fire up. It will melt as soon as gas hits it. Or you can wash away with brake kleen and the coat with oil.
Chris Brown,
I don't think it was mentioned, thanks though I was sweatin putting them back in.
Ted Johnson,
SteveO is spot-on about the Tal-Strip aerosol remover. I found that some of our spray can primers will not dissolve under the Tal-Strip, but everything else does. It has become very hard to find nowdays. I believe Mar Hyde has stopped making it. I managed to find a couple cans that were on someone's shelf, so I'm hoarding it. Remember, it WILL bite you if you get it on you or breathe it in! TJ
Mark Franzen,
Quote: SteveO wrote:
Tal-Strip in the aerosol can will take the hard Mac paint right off...
A word of caution here.... I was so excited to hear about this product that I just had to go get some right away. Wife wasn't home so I left a note.... She wasn't happy when I got home... I should have proof read and added the word paint before stripper.
Honey..
One of the guys just told me about a new stripper so I just ran to town to see if I could get me some. Be back in an hour...
Brian Thomas,
DO NOT USE hardware store bolts ... Most are cheap china crap . Spend the extra couple of bucks and get them at McMaster Carr
Ted Johnson
OOOOKAY!
BTW, I actually did find some advertised on the web, so maybe you'll be in luck. It only does a fair job on powder coat, and a pretty good job on the Mac paint. I had an original Mc6 shroud that not all the paint came off from. The same was true with the Mc6 back plate and stuffer. I didn't get to try it on the crankcase, as the paint had been bead blasted when I got the engine to rebuild. Eastwood once had a VERY good powder remover in their DeKote (DeCote?) pink slimy stuff. They took the smaller quantities off the market, so you can get it only in large containers. TJ
Mark Franzen
Thanks for the info Ted... I'll order them on line from now on. I better be careful when I tell my wife "If any strippers show up on the front door step, let me know."
Ted Johnson
Amen to Brian's post. I think I'm singlehandedly keeping McMaster Carr in business! I bought Gr. 8 studs from the local New Mexico hardware store several years ago to mount the 101 to the side plate on the Swoopster. Broke the first one off just torqueing it down. Never again. TJ
tom dandes
Try soaking in good old dot 3 brake fluid for three to five days (it won't hurt plastics) and will remove most paints.
Or "purple power cleaner". I buy it by the gallon at the local wally mart and five gallon jugs at advance auto (25 dollars). I use it in my parts washer because it's supposed to be inviro safe. It says "do not use with aluminum" but I've never seen any issues with it. After a couple of days immursed in the washer it will blister or leave the paint runny. You can use a brush to remove paint. Caution it will blister or burn your hands if you work with it long enough so wash with water after.
Chris Brown
actually last night i used some brake cleaner spray to get the grit and grime off the engine shroud and noticed that the paint started to bubble off. i didnt have enought soak it overnightlike you suggested but im gonna go buy a bottle, I think i might rather do that than bead blast the parts mainly because the beads cost more and i dont wanna have to worry about getting beads in the motor. dont want anything getting in the way of this being ready by xmas. and i usually find a way to mess something up if there is room for error
Im baking me up some painted metal for lunch, so far the wife hasnt asked whats cooking yet, 45 more minutes and im home free if she dosnt notice.
David Luciani
YOU'RE DEAD if she does.
women do carry on about stoves and oven being for food only!!!
yeesssh.
dave
Chris Brown
I was able to finish them off without being found. going to slap a few more coats on them now. i did have a problem with the recoil housing/motor cover when i hit it in a small area that i had missed last night it kinda bubbled up a bit. anybody know why??? its out in the cold so maybe that had something to do with it
I learned a long time ago to call strippers, Paint remover. no matter how i tell the wife or what i tell her its for once she hears the word stripper shes only thinking one thing. and then i end up having company on the way to the hardware store.
cooking parts i just painted is a great idea dave, thank you very much for telling me that. made my day when they came out not sticky and not as easily chipable, before if i even brushed something the paint would come off kinda
Grumpy Dave,
Oh Oh sounds like a bad bound.
i assumed you'd been told to use primer first.
no biggy i've tried both ways and results seem about the same.
if you do prime parts us a nice self etcher , white is my favorite for yellow.
also many times the bare metal is embedded with oil from the saw.
a good before step is baking parts a few hours to drive out oil from the pores.
again not critical the paint seems to chip pretty easy no matter what.
of course i'm more about use then shelf queens so that may be a factor.
dave