PVL coil advice (820 Power Bee)

[Kevin Davis]

I recently purchased a new PVL coil and required mounting bracket for my 820 Power Bee. It was previously running but stopped due to what was thought to be a bad factory coil. It is a original solid state (no points) lightning version 820. I installed the PVL and hooked up the ground wire and get no spark. I’ve tried everything I can think to do. Any advice would be appreciated.

[ted johnson]

You can call Dave Bonbright at Engine Masters. He's the best West Bend guru. If everything is grounded as necessary, and the flywheel rotation is original to the engine, and the mag is timed, IT OUGHT to work! Here's the correct timing, per Bonbright himself:

PVL timing: Leading edge of second magnet is 1/4 way into middle leg of laminations.
Timing should be 23-26 Deg. BTDC at this magnet location Running gas, use the more retarded timing, running alky, towards the more advanced.

Engine Masters phone number is: 707 938-8122 TJ

[Kevin Davis]

Ok, let me ask some dumb questions. I assume that timing changes are done via flywheel position ( who sales keyways that would allow these changes.) Also ,does the PVL coils ( I assume this is what you called the mag)work with a stock flywheel or do I have to buy that too?

[Dick Teal]

Ok, let me ask some dumb questions. I assume that timing  changes are done via flywheel position ( who sales keyways that would allow these changes.) Also ,does the PVL coils ( I assume this is what you called the mag)work with a stock flywheel or do I have to buy that too?

Kevin,

I assume that you're running an 820 pvl that replaces the old style coil. There shouldn't be any points, condenser etc. mounted on the stator (aluminum adjustable coil-pvl mount). You can use the stock flywheel unless someone replaced it in the past with the wrong rotation. That would be pretty rare.

If you have the flywheel off you can look at the three mounting slots to locate the position. When it's straight up the timing will be about 25-26 degrees. I just used a degree wheel to set two engines I assembled this week. I don't know what has been done to the engine but this should run just fine with either gas or alky.

I'm guessing that's where you have it set right now. You need to spin the engine up, with the spark plug out of the head. Ground the plug against the block while spinning it and you should get spark. I use a 1/2 inch electric impact wrench to spin mine. I'm thinking that you need 300-400 rpm to get spark. You can't spin it fast enough with you hand to get spark like a point/condenser system.

When you have the flywheel off check the flywheel key. If the point cam is still there a standard key will work. If it's missing buy key stock and make a full length key.

If you still have problems let me know.

Dick Teal

[ted johnson]

Ok, let me ask some dumb questions. I assume that timing  changes are done via flywheel position ( who sales keyways that would allow these changes.) Also ,does the PVL coils ( I assume this is what you called the mag)work with a stock flywheel or do I have to buy that too?

Kevin,

I assume that you're running an 820 pvl that replaces the old style coil. There shouldn't be any points, condenser etc. mounted on the stator (aluminum adjustable coil-pvl mount). You can use the stock flywheel unless someone replaced it in the past with the wrong rotation. That would be pretty rare.

If you have the flywheel off you can look at the three mounting slots to locate the position. When it's straight up the timing will be about 25-26 degrees. I just used a degree wheel to set two engines I assembled this week. I don't know what has been done to the engine but this should run just fine with either gas or alky.

I'm guessing that's where you have it set right now. You need to spin the engine up, with the spark plug out of the head. Ground the plug against the block while spinning it and you should get spark. I use a 1/2 inch electric impact wrench to spin mine. I'm thinking that you need 300-400 rpm to get spark. You can't spin it fast enough with you hand to get spark like a point/condenser system.

When you have the flywheel off check the flywheel key. If the point cam is still there a standard key will work. If it's missing buy key stock and make a full length key.

If you still have problems let me know.

Dick Teal

Good points, Dick. I couldn't imagine why anyone would've replaced a flywheel with a reverse rotation one, but I guess it could happen. The issue about the point cam is important. If the point cam is gone from the engine, and the original short flywheel key is used, it could slip into the keyway far enough so that the flywheel could have been tightened "out of time" with the crank keyway. I bought a 3' length of keystock from McMaster Carr so I could make my own long keys. If you use a degree wheel to time your engine, the coil mounting plate (the stator) can be adjusted by loosening the three screws and rotating it to the position I described when the piston is at 23-25 degrees BTDC. Then you can tighten the screws. Ted

[steve welte]

as much as I like the PVL I have had 2 of them go bad. Last fall my dual ran perfect. Took it to the track last sat. for the first time this year and all the left engine would do is start and almost idle. Would take no throttle. Didn't have a spare with me. Came home changed out the coil (15 min. job) and fired right up. My friend Randy just had one do the same thing. Love hate war.

[RANDY DUNCALF]

as much as I like the PVL I have had 2 of them go bad. Last fall my dual ran perfect. Took it to the track last sat. for the first time this year and all the left engine would do is start and almost idle. Would take no throttle. Didn't have a spare with me. Came home changed out the coil (15 min. job) and fired right up. My friend Randy just had one do the same thing. Love hate war.

---

as much as I like the PVL I have had 2 of them go bad. Last fall my dual ran perfect. Took it to the track last sat. for the first time this year and all the left engine would do is start and almost idle. Would take no throttle. Didn't have a spare with me. Came home changed out the coil (15 min. job) and fired right up. My friend Randy just had one do the same thing. Love hate war.

ditto

[Kevin Davis]

I appreciate the advice. I got my 820 working this morning.Thanks guys.

On another note, the PVL coils aren’t cheap. Does anyone have another alternative that is more cost effective? I still have several of these engines I might need to rebuild and spare coils @ $100 can get costly.

By the way Steve I followed your advice from you West Bend connecting rod prep ( from your video). I had one ( out of 4 ) of the good rods , you also discussed in the videos. The prep work was tedious but I think it will be worth the effort. I did most of the port work to the block except the finger porting , I don’t own a mill. I did everything by hand and took my time. ( followed an example of a Bonbright block). Maybe I’ll attempt the finger ports( with ported piston on the next rebuild.). I just didn’t want to screw up a 820 block.

[steve welte]

Kevin I boost port mine starting with a dremel to get the groove started. I have a die grinder that takes the very aggressive pear shape cutter. After I get a nice depth cut with that I go back to the dremel and finish it out with the larger roll cartridge with the 60 grit. That finishes the width and smooths everything out. If the block is a nikasyl then i can't use that die cutter as it chips off the finish.

[Kevin Davis]

Steve you need to make a video on boost porting. Maybe then I would have the courage to give it a try....LoL.