Trick for removing clutch on West Bend 580?

[Brian Smith]

Hey guys- I'm wondering if I have to buy a piston stop to break the clutch nut loose... anyone have another method to lock the motor up? Also, will a simple gear puller work to remove it from the taper, or do I need a clutch puller too?

[ted johnson]

I prefer to remove the stuffer plate and use a block of wood to put between connecting rod and crankcase to stop the crank from rotating while I remove the nut. Remember that West Bends which rotate clockwise at the clutch end of the crank have left hand threads. 580's do not have a tapered crankshaft. Once the nut is removed, the clutch should come right off. If it is stuck on, be careful using a puller not to bend the clutch backplate. When you reinstall the clutch, use a little anti-seize compound on the crank so it'll come off easier in future. TJ

[David Luciani]

ditto teds thoughts.

taking shortcuts with these tiny motors on maintenance often leads to destroyed motors.
 imho while using a piston stop is easier you also risk cracking or denting your piston.
either equals broken motor or if you're really unlucky it'll seem ok and grenade on the track.

secondly 
BUY THE CORRECT PULLER FOR YOUR CLUTCH!!
except for seriously damaged equipment where you have no other option there are zero reasons to use a puller not designed to remove your clutch.
anytime you use the wrong pulling equipment you are risking a damaged crank shaft or ruined clutch.
since the pullers rarely cost more than fifty bux it makes no sense at all to skip buying the correct tool.
d

[ted johnson]

As an addendum to Dave's reply, I run 610 West Bends. The clutch attachment is very similar to the 580. I keep some small oak blocks here to insert between big end of rod, and inside of crankcase to keep crank from rotating. I go through a few wood blocks due to them splitting, but have never damaged n engine component. MOST West bend clutches will slide right off once the nut is removed.
P.S. The ONLY thing I ever use a piston stop for is to determine top dead center when timing the ignition. TJ

[Jim Waltz]

Teddy and David provide good advice.

I have two 3-jaw gear pullers I bought from Auto Nation.  The smaller one almost always gets the job done.

Auto Nation will loan tools, by the way.  They usually have you leave a deposit equal to the sale price.  I think they more often than not get you to take a long a new unit upon returning the borrowed on when you return it.

I had a very recalcitrant clutch on a a Mac 30 once.  Turns out the person who installed the clutch had the key misaligned when they tightened it onto the crank and partly "machined" a new keyway on the clutch hub.  That clutch was on there good!

Soak both ends of the crank with penetrating oil at the clutch, and that may help as well.  It's probably just rusted in place after being on there for too long (and assembled dry).  Of course, since you've not gotten the nut off, the clutch hub may come off more easily than you expect.

And do remember thread direction.  Clockwise PTO means left hand threads.  CCW at the PTO, right hand threads.  Dang hard to get the nut off when you are continuing to tighten it!  

Anti-seize on the hub, and Blue LocTite and 25 ft-lbs of torque on the nut when you re-assemble.