Removing Old Paint and Chrome

[Ludovico Prelogar]

The paint on the Cheetah is barely there, blaster needs to know what media to use to remove paint and chrome.

What do you guys use? Glass for painted areas and sand for chromed areas?

Thanks,

Vico

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Also, what’s the paint/powerdercoat code for Mc yellow and the black crinkle paint?

[Tom Bowman]

The auto body shop that blasted some things for me uses a plastic media. It looks like sand, but not as aggressive I'm told. Leaves a nice surface for powder or paint.

McCulloch engine colors: Prismatic Powders Hot Mustard - PSB 7030 & Desert Nite Black - PWS 2859

www.prismaticpowders.com

Hope this helps,
Tom

[sam bennett]

Vico.
Are you looking to have the chrome parts powder coated too? I've seen some pretty convincing near-chrome looking powder.

From my experience aggressive media like sand is perfectly fine on tube. Sheet metal, not so much!

Chrome only (flash chrome) will come right off because it's only .00001 thick.

My Margays were Chrome/nickel/copper--perhaps like your Cheetah.
Nickel is really tough and blasting could take a long time. Worse yet, if the nickel starts peeling you start down a longer road. If you're committed to powder coating the chrome, blast just enough to get the tooth the coater needs to get it to adhere.

[ted johnson]

Vico, I know money comes hard, but having chrome stripped by a chrome shop is worth the money. There used to be a bumper plating shop in Melbourne, Florida (Sam Bennett country), and they'd strip and redo with flash chrome. I had the black finish parts on my '78 Bug Black Widow stripped and flash chromed there when the kart was new. My pal, Charlie, still has the kart, and the flash chromed bumpers, rods and pedals still look great. Not show quality, but better than kart chrome looked when new. Ted

[ken northside]

I was told by the local powder coater the PC chromes will not stand up to UV and need to be clear coated after clear coating thay don't look like chrome after CC ken

[Duke Zink]

Powder coat chrome doesn't hold up to solvents or oils either. It stains real bad and dulls fast.

[Gary Wlodarsky]

I have found if you tell your plater you want it like it was originaly ( not show chrome) its way less money and looks original....(most of the expense is in the prep work)...yeah its not as good as show chrome,,,but,,it will outlast you and ,me..

gw

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and Duke is correct,,,that powder coat stuff isn't worth doing..unless its gonna sit in you front room and never get used...

gw

[Brian Santee]

We tried the powder chrome at home in our setup, one day without clear and it already was starting to tarnish and no longer look like chrome, and as soon as you clear it to protect it is turns into a nice silver. But nowhere near a chrome.

For the Mcculloch yellow powder there is a RAL number I will grab when I get home, bought some to try on our shrouds and it is a prefect match.

[Sterling Brundick]

Gary is correct about the chrome expense.  80% of the cost is the labor involved just to get the metal to the point of being plated.  It's all polish work (Sam Bennett's forte).  A good plater will ask you what type finish you are wanting and will take the time to explain the differences.

[ted johnson]

Brian, RAL1023 is quite close. I have Charlie Craibes 101D shroud here that I had done, and it looks really close to real Mac. Ted