Emmick Express Build

[sam bennett]

Floor pan. 
I have to be honest here. The factory pan is pretty rough cut. Not only that. It also seems too small for the kart. Almost as if the real floor pan was left in the dryer too long and shrunk. But, it's definitely the original.
I had some extra 6061 .063" thickness to make a new one. For me the easiest way to do this is to divide the original pan in sections and take the measurements that way. 



The first step is to use an random orbital with 400 grit to level the surface. Then I place it under the chassis and transfer the holes with transfer punches. Then drill small holes. 

I layout the dimensions on the sanded pan and cut it with an angle grinder and thick steel straight edges clamped to the sheet. I don't have a fancy sheer--just a cutoff wheel and some kindergarten skills. 

Using the holes I fasten #8 screws to a sheet of plywood to serve as a support. Without the plywood the sheet becomes a very dull razor blade in close proximity to vital organs. Additionally, polishing builds a lot of heat and the plywood soaks some of that up.
Don't bend until you're done polishing.




Then I use the Emery/Sisal, Tripoli/denim, and White/flannel to get it polished. The final step is to bend the ears. Some alloys polish up better than others. I'm not certain why this is? I've had great luck with 3xxx and 5xxx alloys, sometimes 6xxx series gives me mixed results.






Oh yeah... What kind of fancy bender to I have for the Aluminum sheet? I think spent $20 for this thing from Harbor Freight?
It's o.k. for .063" aluminum up to 12" length (maybe). You have to use a lot of clamps--otherwise the bend wont be straight. I guess what I mean is the bend will have a slight arc from the lack of clamping. Your sheet metal friends will make you the butt of all their jokes. 

[sam bennett]

Polishing wheels.

So this is my mickey-mouse set up which works excellent for a guy on a budget. Using a Craftsman workbench, I bought (2) stationary bearings from Amazon for $12.00 each. I got the electric motor from Harbor Freight for about $130 (with a coupon). The electrical parts came from Home Depot. A couple pulleys, carriage bolts, and a belt later, you have a 1.5hp turning machine running at 1800 rpm. The wiring instructions aren't very good, but google is your friend.






I use button head screws to mount wheel halves to the hub. This keeps my fingers from turning into shredded meat. Usually I have to go 220/320/400 and then to the buffer. 

Here is a used Van-K after some sanding.



Once sanded I take them to the buffer and start the same polishing process. I double glove to hold the rim at a 45* angle to the buffing wheel. The heat can get intense because the surface contact is 360* around the rim. This is delicate work and impact with the buffer shaft nut will ruin all of your work. Additionally if the rim grabs the buffing wheel incorrectly it can fly off and damage more vital organs. 

I have lots of what were 10" wheels worn down to various sizes to polish the insides of the wheels.

[sam bennett]

One regret I have in life was not becoming a machinist. No matter where I've lived I made sure to find a machinist who would entertain my dumb questions and willing to do odd jobs for me. It turned out my neighbor's brother is a full time manual machinist at an armory in Brevard County. He helped me with this steering shaft.

Something didn't seem right about the shaft on this kart. I don't remember it being this way, but that was 30 years ago. A Barry Clip below the upper support and one below the lower support doesn't look right?



The steering shaft was also bent and kinda rough.







I made a new one. I was able to copy the exact dimensions from the original, but I wanted it to be securely mounted to the kart like my Margay. 



I welded the pitman arms and the sleeve exactly like the original.
Then I asked Eric to keep an inch below the sleeve and thread about another inch 3/8-24. The lower end bearing is .500" wide so, I'll make a .500" bushing below the bearing and secure it with a nut. Whatever extra on the threaded end I don't need, I'll cut off and drill for a cotter pin. That cost me $20.
Now it will have no problem passing tech and I've got a brand new steering shaft better than the original.




One more polish job and off to the platers.

[sam bennett]

With the steering supports back from the chrome platers I was able to weld them back on the kart. Originally the plan was to blast the chassis and then attach. But with the humidity ramping up this time of year, even a day without protection the chassis would start to rust. 
The new plan is to weld and then they will wrap the supports with aluminum tape, blast, and immediately coat.

[ted johnson]

Sam, you mean to say that things rust in East Central Florida? I'd have never believed it... Ted

[sam bennett]

Ted. It's the 2nd April in history with almost no rainfall. Hard to believe it can be this swampy and no rain?

I'm still waiting on powder and in the meantime just getting some parts ready.

These little Iglide bushings are from a German company called Igus. They are available in both imperial and metric. They are quite inexpensive on the auction site. Part number MYI-04-04.

I'm going to try them out on the pedals and where the throttle rod goes through the alignment tab on the frame. I drilled the pedal tab to 19/64".

[ted johnson]

Sam, where you live, it doesn't matter if there's no rain. There's still enough salt and water in the air with onshore wind to corrode anything! My ex's poppa made a darn good living in Eau Gallie (North Melbourne) doing body work on rusted Brevard County cars... Ted

[sam bennett]

Just got the new steering shaft back from the platers. I'm impressed with the fella who places the part in the tank. He definitely thinks about the aim from the anode. Whereas nickel "throws" pretty easy, chrome doesn't. It doesn't like to get around corners without extra assistance. It's why some parts commercially plated will have areas that "shadow" where the chrome doesn't cover the nickel. 

The purpose of this picture is to illustrate how you can use light as your guide for waviness. If the lines are straight, you're on the right track. Round bar is generally easy with the right technique, but wide flat areas require way more attention. 




I would've expected to find it shadow underneath the pittman arms. Here is another trick I use to "see through" the finish. If I can read print backwards, I'm generally happy. 

[Jim Waltz]

Sam,

That is some real pretty work you are doing.  No surprise there, of course.

Having raced Emmick karts for nearly 20 years, I'm in the early stages of a '75 Lightning project.

It won't be purty in the same way that your Express will be, but at least I'll have a NOS "lightning bolt" seat cover to sit in.

I'll be running a Bonbright Vintage 820 with a pipe.

I have an '85 Emmick with a nickel plated frame, and I might just do that for the Lightning as well.

Ciao!

PS:  I note that Teddy Johnson is all over your topic.  No surprise there, either.

[ted johnson]

Jimmy, as you know, I admire anyone who can do work as well as Sam does! He's good people. He sure helped me on the new Photon. Not to mention that he now lives in my old stomping grounds. I spent lots of time chasing women and a little beer on Merritt Island... Ted