09-22-2016, 07:51 PM
hi recently guys have been asking about making a kart motor from a mcculloch saw.
as i've posted this stuff in the past i figured tell them to go back and read the forum stuff.
hasn't worked so here one more time is the basics for breaking a saw down to it's power head.
i lost count a long time ago but there'sat least 20 saws that i've broken down so far.
short version, remove all chainsaw parts
replace intake and stuffer with kart ones.
add either mc5 crank or crank extension.
you could go the extra bit and add a kart piston too.
done
grumpy dave
btw there is a max torque clutch that will screw right onto the saw crank.
a little pricey but a perfect fit and excellent clutch.
d
this is a slightly longer version but it should be of help to those who want to tinker and won't want to wait on me getting something online.
this is an article that i'llpublish sooner or later on the net.
warning if enough people pester me i'll change that to SELL so Be patient please.
the first thing is to get your tools handy.
you'll need a flat screwdriver or two, a bunch of sockets, and a few wrenches and pullers.
you start by removing the bar.
then remove the front aluminum handle.
take all the screws out of the top of the gas tank. theres some that hide pretty good especially near the gas cap and back near the rear handle.
after all the screws are out gently pry the gas tank cover off.
if it doesn't pop off check for a missed screw, some hide under all the oil imprenated saw dust so look carefully.
but sometimes you have to pry pretty hard.
with the top off remove the screw holding the felt filter thingy and take out.
theres two (sometimes four) screws/bolts under there that need to be removed.
at this time you can also pull the carby as the bolts are easy to access.
save the carb, they're usually pretty good tilly's or flat backs.
remove the two lower bolts holding the carb manifold also take out the third one near the gas tank. take out manifold.
flip the saw on it's back.
remove the bolts holding the rear handle to the power head.
now the handle and lower gas tank should seperate from the powerhead. you have to kinda jigger the handle to get the gas bar clear. also be sure to cut the kill wire from the switch. be sure to leave as much as possible on the power head.
remove the four bolts holding in the oiler next. one of those bolts is a pain. i've got a ground down socket that fits to make bolt removal easier. most of the oilers will have a steel stuffer that also holds the oil in the oil tank. you need this part to keep stuff out of the motor so pop it off.Important put the saw over something that'll catch the old oil or you'll refresh the oil finish on your bench!!!
now it depends on which saw you have.
on all clutch removals you need to find the small hole in the fan cover thats used for pinning the flywheel. it's down near the powerhead on the back of the fan cover. put a small point , allen wrench, pick or whatever thru the hole and rotate the motor till you can push the pin a little father in . the motor shouldn't be able to rotate now. turn to the other side and remove the clutch nut.be careful some are left threads - some are right.
at this point the bigger saws require alot more parts removed to pull the gearbox.
smaller saws require the clutch to be pulled.
use a clutch puller regardless. i ruined a crank being impatient by hammering the nut to loosen the clutch. take five minutes and build a puller if you don't have one. i used a scrap of angle iron , two screws that fit the threads in the clutch and an i bolt with a nut threaded on.i just drilled three holes one in the middle and two to fit the puller span on the clutch.
i put the big bolt thru the middle hole and thread the nut on .install the two puller screws and then tighten the middle nut so it lifts the angle iron away from the clutch. you may have to tap the middle rod a little to get the clutch to let go.
remove inner clutch and pop off the key.
take out the gear drum.
now you'll need to clean the motor of the years of goo.
depending on which motor you have you can then add a manifold and stuffer, mount it and run.
or with the step cranks you'll need to change the crank or fit up an adapter.
dave![[Image: cool.gif]](http://www.vintagekarts.com/forum/images/emoticons/cool.gif)
as i've posted this stuff in the past i figured tell them to go back and read the forum stuff.
hasn't worked so here one more time is the basics for breaking a saw down to it's power head.
i lost count a long time ago but there'sat least 20 saws that i've broken down so far.
short version, remove all chainsaw parts
replace intake and stuffer with kart ones.
add either mc5 crank or crank extension.
you could go the extra bit and add a kart piston too.
done
grumpy dave
btw there is a max torque clutch that will screw right onto the saw crank.
a little pricey but a perfect fit and excellent clutch.
d
this is a slightly longer version but it should be of help to those who want to tinker and won't want to wait on me getting something online.
this is an article that i'llpublish sooner or later on the net.
warning if enough people pester me i'll change that to SELL so Be patient please.
the first thing is to get your tools handy.
you'll need a flat screwdriver or two, a bunch of sockets, and a few wrenches and pullers.
you start by removing the bar.
then remove the front aluminum handle.
take all the screws out of the top of the gas tank. theres some that hide pretty good especially near the gas cap and back near the rear handle.
after all the screws are out gently pry the gas tank cover off.
if it doesn't pop off check for a missed screw, some hide under all the oil imprenated saw dust so look carefully.
but sometimes you have to pry pretty hard.
with the top off remove the screw holding the felt filter thingy and take out.
theres two (sometimes four) screws/bolts under there that need to be removed.
at this time you can also pull the carby as the bolts are easy to access.
save the carb, they're usually pretty good tilly's or flat backs.
remove the two lower bolts holding the carb manifold also take out the third one near the gas tank. take out manifold.
flip the saw on it's back.
remove the bolts holding the rear handle to the power head.
now the handle and lower gas tank should seperate from the powerhead. you have to kinda jigger the handle to get the gas bar clear. also be sure to cut the kill wire from the switch. be sure to leave as much as possible on the power head.
remove the four bolts holding in the oiler next. one of those bolts is a pain. i've got a ground down socket that fits to make bolt removal easier. most of the oilers will have a steel stuffer that also holds the oil in the oil tank. you need this part to keep stuff out of the motor so pop it off.Important put the saw over something that'll catch the old oil or you'll refresh the oil finish on your bench!!!
now it depends on which saw you have.
on all clutch removals you need to find the small hole in the fan cover thats used for pinning the flywheel. it's down near the powerhead on the back of the fan cover. put a small point , allen wrench, pick or whatever thru the hole and rotate the motor till you can push the pin a little father in . the motor shouldn't be able to rotate now. turn to the other side and remove the clutch nut.be careful some are left threads - some are right.
at this point the bigger saws require alot more parts removed to pull the gearbox.
smaller saws require the clutch to be pulled.
use a clutch puller regardless. i ruined a crank being impatient by hammering the nut to loosen the clutch. take five minutes and build a puller if you don't have one. i used a scrap of angle iron , two screws that fit the threads in the clutch and an i bolt with a nut threaded on.i just drilled three holes one in the middle and two to fit the puller span on the clutch.
i put the big bolt thru the middle hole and thread the nut on .install the two puller screws and then tighten the middle nut so it lifts the angle iron away from the clutch. you may have to tap the middle rod a little to get the clutch to let go.
remove inner clutch and pop off the key.
take out the gear drum.
now you'll need to clean the motor of the years of goo.
depending on which motor you have you can then add a manifold and stuffer, mount it and run.
or with the step cranks you'll need to change the crank or fit up an adapter.
dave