05-22-2018, 03:18 PM
i've relined a bunch of my brakes.
very easy job.
i use the industrial lining from mcmaster carr rated at 4,000 fpm @ 250 psi something i kinda think a racing kart won't exceed that rating!
to find what i use go to page link i listed and high lite the 2 3/4" width at top of page .
mcmaster carr brake/clutch lining i use
you can buy it in 2 3/4" wide strips however long you want which is great for bendix brakes.
this stuff is used for enormous machines for both braking and clutch applications.
for round pucks i use a clamp drill press and correct sized hole saws for the blanks and epoxy in place.
for drum shoes i use a stepped twist drill to bore the rivit counter bore.
i made my own rivit punch for brake rivits but buying one is a better option.
to be extra sure i also epoxy the brakes i'm riviting mostly because it's easy to do.
the plus side of also using epoxyis you get linings that can't move.
if you just want to use just epoxy clamp the brake lining and shoe inside of drum to correctly curve the lining till it dries.
be sure not to epoxy the shoe to the drum if you're nervous you can separate the two with paper towel between shoe and drum.
the woven lining which was green the last time i bought it works well , wears well and runs a little cooler than the really hard stuff.
i use the solid smooth lining on round pukes mostly .
if you use the smooth linings on drums you'll need to cross hatch the shoe to allow some cooling of the friction between the shoe and drum.
hope this helps
d
very easy job.
i use the industrial lining from mcmaster carr rated at 4,000 fpm @ 250 psi something i kinda think a racing kart won't exceed that rating!
to find what i use go to page link i listed and high lite the 2 3/4" width at top of page .
mcmaster carr brake/clutch lining i use
you can buy it in 2 3/4" wide strips however long you want which is great for bendix brakes.
this stuff is used for enormous machines for both braking and clutch applications.
for round pucks i use a clamp drill press and correct sized hole saws for the blanks and epoxy in place.
for drum shoes i use a stepped twist drill to bore the rivit counter bore.
i made my own rivit punch for brake rivits but buying one is a better option.
to be extra sure i also epoxy the brakes i'm riviting mostly because it's easy to do.
the plus side of also using epoxyis you get linings that can't move.
if you just want to use just epoxy clamp the brake lining and shoe inside of drum to correctly curve the lining till it dries.
be sure not to epoxy the shoe to the drum if you're nervous you can separate the two with paper towel between shoe and drum.
the woven lining which was green the last time i bought it works well , wears well and runs a little cooler than the really hard stuff.
i use the solid smooth lining on round pukes mostly .
if you use the smooth linings on drums you'll need to cross hatch the shoe to allow some cooling of the friction between the shoe and drum.
hope this helps
d
Dave L.