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Burnishing pictures
#21
I got back last night and had some parts from Ryan Johnson waiting for me. He sent a MC91, some H/A parts, and a Hartman cover. 
After taping up the clean hone on the block, all the parts were blasted, prepped, and burnished. Thanks Ryan!


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#22
Looks excellent, Sam!! Can't wait to get them back.
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#23
talk about purdy..........
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#24
That's impressive! Sam how long does the finish stay "brite"? Is it affected by heat cycles or chemicals like gas and oil?
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#25
Product for keeping the finish bright....from the discussion on the old Forum......

http://www.sharkhide.com/index.html

the working principals behind SHARKHIDE are very simple. The materials that make up SHARKHIDE Metal Protectant are a proprietary blend of many types of resins. These resins are then suspended in a blend of two different solvents. When applied to a surface, the solvents rapidly evaporate leaving the actual SHARKHIDE Metal Protectant behind. This forms an air tight film over any metal surface, and will protect against just about anything Mother Nature can throw at it.

In the marine industry, SHARKHIDE is used primarily on aluminum hulls such as Pontoon boats, Houseboat, and Fishing boats. In most instances, a couple of good coats can last many years. It's not uncommon to see three to five years of protection. On applications like motorcycles, muscle cars, show cars and other things that don't see a lot of exposure to the elements, you may see as many as eight or more years. In severe duty applications such as fire/rescue equipment, over the road trucks, dumps, tanks and the like, you can still enjoy one to three (or more) years of protection. And one of the many great features of SHARKHIDE is when it is time to reapply, there's no need to strip or prep the original coat. Since SHARKHIDE's "self etching", you simply wipe a fresh coat over the old one, and the new coat will partially melt, and blend right info the first!
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#26
(03-11-2017, 03:01 PM)Randy Dacus Wrote: Product for keeping the finish bright....from the discussion on the old Forum......

http://www.sharkhide.com/index.html

the working principals behind SHARKHIDE are very simple. The materials that make up SHARKHIDE Metal Protectant are a proprietary blend of many types of resins. These resins are then suspended in a blend of two different solvents. When applied to a surface, the solvents rapidly evaporate leaving the actual SHARKHIDE Metal Protectant behind. This forms an air tight film over any metal surface, and will protect against just about anything Mother Nature can throw at it.

In the marine industry, SHARKHIDE is used primarily on aluminum hulls such as Pontoon boats, Houseboat, and Fishing boats. In most instances, a couple of good coats can last many years. It's not uncommon to see three to five years of protection. On applications like motorcycles, muscle cars, show cars and other things that don't see a lot of exposure to the elements, you may see as many as eight or more years. In severe duty applications such as fire/rescue equipment, over the road trucks, dumps, tanks and the like, you can still enjoy one to three (or more) years of protection. And one of the many great features of SHARKHIDE is when it is time to reapply, there's no need to strip or prep the original coat. Since SHARKHIDE's "self etching", you simply wipe a fresh coat over the old one, and the new coat will partially melt, and blend right info the first!
That Shark Hide really works too.  It takes a little learning to get the application down just right but once you do, it does exactly what it says.  A little bit goes a long way.
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#27
As most of you know Vico is working on a restoration of a Panther X and sent me some parts today. 
Here are some "before an after" pics. Thanks Vico!
Work is taking me to Europe for 3 weeks and I should have some time for jobs after April 18th.

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#28
Sam:


To be perfectly honest I thought many of those parts may have been so bad that you wouldn't be able to burnish them. However, the quality of work that has been show needs is truly outstanding Smile. I can't wait wait to get them back!

Thanks Sam, I'll be watching my house everyday for that package!

Vico
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#29
Second attempt to make this post.

I got an MC92 from one of Scotty's customers while I was gone. It was a priority to get it back into the hands of the Master ASAP. 

It was sent to me exactly how I like them. Stripped, clean, no studs, and blasted. I just have to screw in the BHCS, wire, and zip tie where needed.

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After.


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I don't necessarily want to start a flame war here, but when am I going to get some West Bend parts to finish? As of now it's been Foreign, Clinton, and MC guys.

BTW. Remember, nothing can burnish magnesium. OEM MC stuffers are Mg. 

If you want to test if something is Mg vs. Al, just put some white vinegar on it. Vinegar has almost no effect on AL, but will bubble with Mg.
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#30
Oh Jeeze. A tater digger on the forum... 
I was bored today and wanted to see how this engine (which came on the Emmick) would fare in a battle against burnishing. My own parts. (No real kart engines were harmed during this sequence).

A 10 year old Honda sitting out in Florida vs. pins and chemistry.

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Loving the corrosion. 

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(Rusty) Rare earth magnet on the FW.
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After Blasting.
The head and FW look about the same.

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