05-27-2020, 03:11 PM (This post was last modified: 05-27-2020, 03:13 PM by Terry Bentley.)
DID and EK both are common. You can get it online from most kart shops, ebay, Amazon, blah, blah, blah. I used to pick it up for around $12 for 40", but that was in bulk purchase. I expect it to retail around $25-30.
Mower or small engine shops usually dont have space chain, and also generic brand. You might get lucky tho.
(05-27-2020, 03:11 PM)Terry Bentley Wrote: DID and EK both are common. You can get it online from most kart shops, ebay, Amazon, blah, blah, blah. I used to pick it up for around $12 for 40", but that was in bulk purchase. I expect it to retail around $25-30.
Mower or small engine shops usually dont have space chain, and also generic brand. You might get lucky tho.
05-27-2020, 05:34 PM (This post was last modified: 05-27-2020, 05:49 PM by ted johnson.)
Why would you want that stuff? Even the very best old style chain wouldn't last for a hard weekend. I remember mixing up a concoction of oil, STP, graphite Liquid Wrench, or as Pop called it, Liquid Stench and putting the chain in a pan of that on my hot plate and cooking it for hours. I don't believe it really kept the chain from kinking any better than a shot of regular chain oil. I would no more use that old chain than I would use a master link. RLV or another quality brand of space chain is the ONLY way to go. Run it, lube it and keep the same chain all season. I've actually seen old style chain like Diamond, kink so bad that the crank broke from the chain shortening. I just buy a standard length from Comet Kart Sales or another quality shop, and buy a GOOD chain break/repair tool such as one on the following page: https://cometkartsales.com/Chain-Tools/ and you're set for years of basically forgetting that there is a chain back there. Ron Cubel got me using the Xeramic Ceramic Synthetic Chain Oil Spray that most kart shops carry. It works well and you can clean it off the kart using Armor All Multi Purpose Cleaner in the purple and white spray bottle, or simple denatured alcohol and a paper towel. These also will clean castor oil off the kart if you go the alky/castor route. Baked on castor can be a real bear to remove, and also some chain lubes are like glue to get off the paint. It is wise to test your paint to ensure the denatured alcohol won't soften it. Denatured alky does not harm powder coat at all.TJ
Richard,
I believe that "Space Chain" is made specifically for karts and as far as I know, it's the only type strong enough to handle high RPMs.
Other types of chain (e.g., from mower shops, or industrial supply) will kink up almost immediately, but not because of lubrication. They kink because the pins actually bend! Kinda like when you bend a piano hinge.
I'm attaching 2 short, super helpful articles from Azusa's website.
EK (Enuma) Siilver Pro and RLV are the two brands of Space Chain that we use. Comet Kart Sales has both.
Using Space Chain with an inboard clutch on a Mc91X or older requires some extra care. Not an issue for you, since you have an outboard clutch.
The PTO shaft on Mc92 & Mc93 is 0.100 inch longer, but for the older Macs, with an inboard clutch, Space Chain rivets will chew on block and PTO seal. Most people compensate by tapping the seal in another 0.10" or so, to get it out of harm's way.
I've been using the P/N CHX5107 RLV chain, the g0ld on g0ld for many years now, with zero issues. I've used it on 100cc open reed motors and 135cc opens, as well as my dual open reed karts. There are others that cost a bit less, and they work well, too. I'm one of those guys who digs until he finds the best, then sticks with it. The tiny difference in cost is well worth it! TJ
as a side note. I have run g0ld on g0ld RLV since getting back into karting in 2010. I probably run more than most. On a 9t Max torque it will dimple the sleeve until it eventually shears off leaving you stranded. Happened probably 10 times to me. I went back to old chain but that sure didn't work. I'm trying the black and silver now to see if that is a bit different. Either the chain is to large or the 9t is hobbed just a bit to much. I don't have an answer to this problem but when you drive 1200 miles one way to an event and the sprocket shears off on the first lap of the first heat you are not to happy. I know gearbox time. Not.
Steve's answer is spot on. I rather doubt that the side link plates vary much from RLV g0ld-g0ld to the black-silver, but maybe they do. Also, note that it is very important to wisely choose the flat washer that is under the clutch nut. If it's too large in diameter, the outer chain link plates can ride on the washer. This not only causes the link plates to wear, but also causes the chain to twist as the outer link plates travel a larger radius than do the inner link plates. I completely quit using 9 tooth clutches because of the small radius the link plates describe as they go over the sprocket. I use only 10T clutches now, and I choose the ARP chrome moly black hardened washer of the smallest diameter they make. Also, the 10T sprocket wears far less than the 9T sprocket. As the chain pulls away from the smaller drive sprocket, it wears the outside of the tooth from which the chain departs, as the chain "roller" rubs harder against the tooth. It wears the back face of the tooth as well as the gullet of the tooth. I realize that some tracks almost require the 9T so that you use a smaller driven sprocket. This business of the 9T VS the 10T driver has been an issue since we first began running Mc5's and Mc10's back in late '59. I remember we sold a lot of 9 tooth drivers, and even some 8T drivers. Early on, Pop and I decided we'd rather run the larger axle gear so we could run 10T drive sprockets. You just have to learn to keep all four wheels on the pavement! We even ran 4" wheels with 10" tires on our A Super karts. I'm still running those on the n1ke kart. Ted
