Pto centering

[ted johnson]

I figure that since the g0ld/g0ld is a known quantity, runs well and lasts a long time at high RPM, why switch? Any price difference is minimal over time. I know RLV makes the g0ld/g0ld Extreme, the g0ld/black for a little less money and the g0ld/black Reaper, which RLV says is super flexible and provides less friction. It costs more than the standard g0ld/black and a little less than the g0ld/g0ld. I haven't tried the Reaper yet. EK chain has been good, but since I KNOW the RLV g0ld/g0ld is great stuff, why make a change? I don't even consider 219, as it has nothing to do with vintage. TJ

[Tom Day]

Terry that last part is almost funny. I don't get it either. LOL. Doug we tested the cranks. They were indeed 56 rockwell. I've had 5 of the taper cranks fail in the crankpin. The new company or lastest I should say, US Motorpower, has never made one of them. They were made around 2000 and won't ever be offered again. It's all about time. I'll run what we got until there is nothing left to run and then we are done. I have yet to tear last seasons engine down to see how they fared. I switched from 10 oz of KL100 to 11 oz of straight Benol castor in hopes that may buy some extra time.

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It should be mentioned that g0ld on g0ld is RLV and sivler and black is EK. I have a package of tuck and run but haven't tested it yet. there may be slight differences on a 9 tooth. time will tell. I'm testing some black and silver and will be looking at the sleeve of the Max t soon now that tracks are opening up again.

I have run them all and like the silver pro the best. It seems to be the strongest and wears the best. When I use up everything else that will be all I buy.

[Richard Stamile]

Richard, the roller links stick out further than do the outer plates. The curve of the peanut across it's widest part should be .356 according to ANSI/ASME Spec B29.1. Chains should meet the above spec. If you take the radius, multiply it by two (to get .356), take the pitch diameter of the 9T sprocket, 1.097, subtract the .356 and you end up with a .741 dimension. This is the max. diameter you have left so that the chain will just touch the neck between drum and sprocket. Of course, you want to have some clearance, so a .688 diameter would be the max that I'd want to see. I had a flat washer under my clutch nut that was actually a bit bigger in diameter than the aforementioned .741 diameter, so that my chain was riding on the washer. I realized this was twisting my chain as it ran across the top sprocket, so I dug up a smaller one from ARP fasteners. I would like someone to measure the neck diameter on some 9T clutches to see how much the links can whack the neck when the chain is whipping around. I'm glad our AZ tracks are "open" enough so I can run a 10T. This means I have no clearance issues, plus I can run a needle bearing in my drum. As long as I put a dab of Moly disulfide grease on the needles once in a while, the needle runs for a very long time. I've also had folks tell me that a needle bearing running on the West Bend crank will cause problems. I've been running the same crank in my 610 for eight years, and there's no sign of wear. I run 10T needle bearing Max Torques and Rev Grips. TJ

Ted so i just received the g0ld extreme best chain from RLV  5 ft. with 2 links i have the 70 inch sprocket and the 10 t on the pto i know i need a bit of slack
how do i cut this, do i carefully grind the head of the close-est rivet and press the rivet out with a drift punch like i used to do way back in the day or do i need
one of the chain cutters that are sold by Kart suppliers i don't plan on going to more then 2 events a year, i still have the bronze bushing on the drum probably
leave it for now till i get a source for the needle bearing

[Terry Bentley]

All of the 9 tooth sprockets I have measure a solid .740". The used ones have barely any contact marks, that are .002-.004" under size from wear.

[ted johnson]

Richard, the roller links stick out further than do the outer plates. The curve of the peanut across it's widest part should be .356 according to ANSI/ASME Spec B29.1. Chains should meet the above spec. If you take the radius, multiply it by two (to get .356), take the pitch diameter of the 9T sprocket, 1.097, subtract the .356 and you end up with a .741 dimension. This is the max. diameter you have left so that the chain will just touch the neck between drum and sprocket. Of course, you want to have some clearance, so a .688 diameter would be the max that I'd want to see. I had a flat washer under my clutch nut that was actually a bit bigger in diameter than the aforementioned .741 diameter, so that my chain was riding on the washer. I realized this was twisting my chain as it ran across the top sprocket, so I dug up a smaller one from ARP fasteners. I would like someone to measure the neck diameter on some 9T clutches to see how much the links can whack the neck when the chain is whipping around. I'm glad our AZ tracks are "open" enough so I can run a 10T. This means I have no clearance issues, plus I can run a needle bearing in my drum. As long as I put a dab of Moly disulfide grease on the needles once in a while, the needle runs for a very long time. I've also had folks tell me that a needle bearing running on the West Bend crank will cause problems. I've been running the same crank in my 610 for eight years, and there's no sign of wear. I run 10T needle bearing Max Torques and Rev Grips. TJ

Ted so i just received the g0ld extreme best chain from RLV  5 ft. with 2 links i have the 70 inch sprocket and the 10 t on the pto i know i need a bit of slack
how do i cut this, do i carefully grind the head of the close-est rivet and press the rivet out with a drift punch like i used to do way back in the day or do i need
one of the chain cutters that are sold by Kart suppliers i don't plan on going to more then 2 events a year, i still have the bronze bushing on the drum probably
leave it for now till i get a source for the needle bearing

Richard, you've gotta buy a GOOD chain breaker for No. 35 chain, from a shop such as Comet Kart Sales. You place the chain in the breaker at the position at which you want to "cut" it. The chain breaker has a pin which pushes the pin out and into the furthest side plate. The length of the push pin in the tool is such that it should not push the chain link pin completely out of the link plate. You then insert the other end of the chain into the link plates. There is enough of the chain pin sticking out of the link plate to engage the end of the chain. Move the chain to the other screw, run the screw in until it rests against the link side plate. The pin which is sticking out will rest in the notch in the breaker. You then screw the pusher screw in until it just bottoms. Thee pin should be pushed all the way into the link plates. Take the chain out of the tool and make sure it moves freely. Sometimes you have to push the pin back through in the opposite direction a few thousandths to free the link. TRY IT OUT ON A SCRAP PIECE OF CHAIN until you get the feel of it. There are YouTube vids that give a pretty good representation of the process. There's no need to "peen" or rivet the pin in. There's so much interference it'll never come out. No grinding is ever necessary. The breaker pushes the pin out. Remember, you may have to disassemble/reassemble the chain while it's on the axle, especially if your sprocket is inside the frame rails! You MUST get a good breaker tool!. Ted

[Richard Stamile]

Richard, the roller links stick out further than do the outer plates. The curve of the peanut across it's widest part should be .356 according to ANSI/ASME Spec B29.1. Chains should meet the above spec. If you take the radius, multiply it by two (to get .356), take the pitch diameter of the 9T sprocket, 1.097, subtract the .356 and you end up with a .741 dimension. This is the max. diameter you have left so that the chain will just touch the neck between drum and sprocket. Of course, you want to have some clearance, so a .688 diameter would be the max that I'd want to see. I had a flat washer under my clutch nut that was actually a bit bigger in diameter than the aforementioned .741 diameter, so that my chain was riding on the washer. I realized this was twisting my chain as it ran across the top sprocket, so I dug up a smaller one from ARP fasteners. I would like someone to measure the neck diameter on some 9T clutches to see how much the links can whack the neck when the chain is whipping around. I'm glad our AZ tracks are "open" enough so I can run a 10T. This means I have no clearance issues, plus I can run a needle bearing in my drum. As long as I put a dab of Moly disulfide grease on the needles once in a while, the needle runs for a very long time. I've also had folks tell me that a needle bearing running on the West Bend crank will cause problems. I've been running the same crank in my 610 for eight years, and there's no sign of wear. I run 10T needle bearing Max Torques and Rev Grips. TJ

Ted so i just received the g0ld extreme best chain from RLV  5 ft. with 2 links i have the 70 inch sprocket and the 10 t on the pto i know i need a bit of slack
how do i cut this, do i carefully grind the head of the close-est rivet and press the rivet out with a drift punch like i used to do way back in the day or do i need
one of the chain cutters that are sold by Kart suppliers i don't plan on going to more then 2 events a year, i still have the bronze bushing on the drum probably
leave it for now till i get a source for the needle bearing

Richard, you've gotta buy a GOOD chain breaker for No. 35 chain, from a shop such as Comet Kart Sales. You place the chain in the breaker at the position at which you want to "cut" it. The chain breaker has a pin which pushes the pin out and into the furthest side plate. The length of the push pin in the tool is such that it should not push the chain link pin completely out of the link plate. You then insert the other end of the chain into the link plates. There is enough of the chain pin sticking out of the link plate to engage the end of the chain. Move the chain to the other screw, run the screw in until it rests against the link side plate. The pin which is sticking out will rest in the notch in the breaker. You then screw the pusher screw in until it just bottoms. Thee pin should be pushed all the way into the link plates. Take the chain out of the tool and make sure it moves freely. Sometimes you have to push the pin back through in the opposite direction a few thousandths to free the link. TRY IT OUT ON A SCRAP PIECE OF CHAIN until you get the feel of it. There are YouTube vids that give a pretty good representation of the process. There's no need to "peen" or rivet the pin in. There's so much interference it'll never come out. No grinding is ever necessary. The breaker pushes the pin out. Remember, you may have to disassemble/reassemble the chain while it's on the axle, especially if your sprocket is inside the frame rails! You MUST get a good breaker tool!. Ted

Thanks Ted will do buy a GOOD chain breaker and watch the you tube videos how to do it