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Help with fading brakes with drum bendix brake
#11
(05-15-2018, 06:58 PM)Mel Ruffner Wrote: HI everyone Is it normal for drum brake to overheat and lose almost all your braking? I was at circleville and after the straight I went to brake for the turn and was shocked to learn I had almost no brakes.I didn't,t have that problem with my slow mc5 but put a faster 91b on  and had problems. is there something I can do to prevent that or is it just to much motor for drum brakes? I took the drum off  and The pads look ok except some glazing and the drum was real smooth and shiny. SHould I just rough it up with some emery cloth? I know some will say who needs brakes but I feel safer with them. THanks everyone    mel

Ted

WOW!
That is beautiful set up for MCP.. and the attention to detail is impressive..I like the nipples and knurled additions!

jon
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#12
Jon, the caliper is the Wilwood kart caliper. It looks more vintage than the MCP "brick". Ron Cubel was using the MCP master and Wilwood caliper on his wife's Fox, and he really liked the brake action. I had the really nice Bendix with the TII finned drum on the n1ke, and Ron wanted it for a resto on another kart. He traded me a new Wilwood caliper for the Bendix assembly. I bought a new MCP 875EP master (cheap!), the fittings from Russell, the real nice custom length hose from Paragon Performance custom brake lines in CA and the new setup has been flawless on the good ol' n1ke, and the new Photon as well. It's sorta like the Bonbright 610's: install, tune and forget it! Comet Kart Sales has the cute knurled master Cyl. cap. Paragon Performance are super nice folks, and fab your hoses to your length requirements. http://www.paragonperformance.com/ Ted
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#13
i've relined a bunch of my brakes.
very easy job.
i use the industrial lining from mcmaster carr rated at 4,000 fpm @ 250 psi something i kinda think a racing kart won't exceed that rating!
to find what i use go to page link i listed and high lite the 2 3/4" width at top of page .
mcmaster carr brake/clutch lining i use
you can buy it in 2 3/4" wide strips however long you want which is great for bendix brakes.
this stuff is used for enormous machines for both braking and clutch applications.

for round pucks i use a clamp drill press and correct sized hole saws for the blanks and epoxy in place.

for drum shoes i use a stepped twist drill to bore the rivit counter bore.
i  made my own rivit punch for brake rivits but buying one is a better option.

to be extra sure i also epoxy the brakes i'm riviting mostly because it's easy to do. 
the plus side of also using epoxyis you get linings that can't move.
if you just want to use just epoxy clamp the brake lining and shoe inside of drum to correctly curve the lining till it dries.
be sure not to epoxy the shoe to the drum if you're nervous you can separate the two with paper towel between shoe and drum.

the woven lining which was green the last time i bought it works well , wears well and runs a little cooler than the really hard stuff.
i use the solid smooth lining on round pukes mostly .
if you use the smooth  linings on drums you'll need to cross hatch the shoe to allow some cooling of the friction between the shoe and drum.

hope this helps
d Cool
Dave L.
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