HI everyone Is it normal for drum brake to overheat and lose almost all your braking? I was at circleville and after the straight I went to brake for the turn and was shocked to learn I had almost no brakes.I didn't,t have that problem with my slow mc5 but put a faster 91b on and had problems. is there something I can do to prevent that or is it just to much motor for drum brakes? I took the drum off and The pads look ok except some glazing and the drum was real smooth and shiny. SHould I just rough it up with some emery cloth? I know some will say who needs brakes but I feel safer with them. THanks everyone mel
05-15-2018, 07:31 PM (This post was last modified: 05-15-2018, 07:33 PM by ted johnson.)
This is a real issue, but will be MUCH worse if you're running one of Azusa's current Bendix "look-alike" brakes, or even just the Azusa drum. I had a "real" Bendix with NOS Bendix drum and shoes on the n1ke, and it faded badly at the Tucson track. We used to use the Bendix back in the old days with good success. I kept wondering why, and came to the conclusion that, of course, we ran direct drive back then, and had excellent engine braking. I tried one of Terry's steel finned drums, but it did not help at all. I believe the large volume of steel in the finned drum retained heat, causing even more fade. I gave up and switched to the Wilwood kart caliper, MCP 875EP master cylinder, MCP712 disc, and MCP disc hub. I CAD modeled a mount plate that mounts the caliper and master using the axle bearing flangette bolts. Issue disappeared. Brake is positive, smooth and easy to bleed. When I designed my new Photon kart, I set it up from the get-go for the MCP/Wilwood brake system. Ted
i use drum brakes all the time.
they typically never heat up but i rarely touch the brake.
i've noticed brake issues usually chase the guys who are used to modern karts and modern kart braking patterns.
the older rears depended more on setting up a drift and tire scrub in the corner.
modern karts brake away the speed before the corner and drive through the corners.
regardless,
if you are having fade issues you absolutely should consider upgrading the brakes as ted suggests.
while i don't use mine much they absolutely need to work.
in emergencies like brake checks sudden accident where everyone needs to slow down or stop they gotta work.
replacing drums with juice brakes and disk is a good option.
d
Either find NOS BENDIX shoes, get your old ones relined or reline them yourself. Don't buy the Azusa shoes if you're going to run fairly hard. They're a great yard/fun shoe, but not for hard running. TJ
I've not done it yet, but yes, there is a rivet-setting tool to properly clinch the rivet. I"m not sure if it's a common practice to clinch them with that rivet set and a hammer: I imagine that using a press is more controllable and accurate and reduces the chance of ruining the rivet and/or the lining. Maybe others seeing this can reply with their personal experience?
05-16-2018, 05:17 PM (This post was last modified: 05-16-2018, 05:18 PM by Kurt Bogerman.)
Looks like Aircraft Spruce has several models of brake rivet setting tools. One version involves a fixture that holds the set while you strike it, and another version is similar, but threaded, and sets the rivet by that means. They also appear to vary in quality.
I drove Mel's kart and the pedal felt like mush. I suspect the linings need replaced. The brake looks like the old Bendix and not a new one. I would also inspect to see the brake is releasing completely and not dragging. I would make sure you are not riding the brake. Easy to say, but I have caught myself doing it in unfamiliar karts. Sometimes in cramped karts it is hard to pull toes back when your knees are pointed straight up. Bent forward Rupp pedals or Fox pedals can help.
I run a Rupp Brand X and run a full Terri Ives drum brake drum set up. It came with the thick billet drum that looks like the azusa finned cover, reinforced backing plate and parts, and the clutch material relined brake shoes. I am not a heavy driver, and I don't like to over slow the kart. This set up has been great for 2 - 3 years. Probably as much $ as a modern MCP, but I wanted to retain the vintage drum look. You can purchase the bake parts individually also.
