brake Ferrules (use,type and installation advise)

[steve welte]

always check the inside of the nut to see if it's flat to match the flat style. I have gotten lots of calipers and master cyl. with the parts loosely screwed on in the package to find the nut to NOT be the flat style. I keep a drill bit I ground flat and back cut to fit into any that aren't flat for brake use. 10 sec and they are good to go.

[Tom Smith]

Eaton long nut, PN 1611x3. 
Eaton sleeve,  PN 601x3.

[Tom Smith]

   
   

[Jeff May]

DO NOT use the "barrel" type, they can and have cut into the brake line tubing. Only use the "hat" type. The barrel type has the possiblities of getting slightly "cocked" while drawing up the compression nut and cutting into the tubing. The hat type will stay straighter or aligned and will not cut into the tubing.
The ones Tom Smith has shown on here are excellent pieces.

barrel type

  barrelfer.jpg (Size: 1.83 KB / Downloads: 89)
hat type

  hatfer.jpg (Size: 1.62 KB / Downloads: 91)

[Nils gustafson]

   
an old trick use a 3/32 brazing rod or a drill , stick it thru whole assembly , then tighten slightly to set and dent and aline ferrell . Pull rod out reassemble on caliper , and fully torque .. Been doing this for years no problems.. But true cones are F proof...thk/u. gus..

[ted johnson]

an old trick use a 3/32 brazing rod or a drill , stick it thru whole assembly , then tighten slightly to set and dent and aline ferrell . Pull rod out reassemble on caliper , and fully torque .. Been doing this for years no problems.. But true cones are F proof...thk/u. gus..

Hey, Gus. The drill bit is the way I've done the olive type for years. I've never had a failure or a crooked ferrule. TJ