build your own expansion chamber!! plus adjustable header design

[David Luciani]

[Randy Dacus]

GW....always gets it ......now to hear from Brown and Welte on the graph-fix.....maybe just go with a clear panel and generic side panels ???

How about Carb Covers and a Kart Kape, err' Cover ?

[doug tenney]

I'd say, don't make the covers look overly "precious."

Otherwise... reminds me of friends who put cute sweaters on their dogs. I tell them, "No wonder he looks so sad. How would you like it if all the other dogs made fun of YOU?"

---

Hmmm.

West Bend heads attach with EIGHT 1/4-20's.

Mac's have six #10-24's.

Power Products, now that's a different story!

[David Luciani]

ok back to the thread and it's original intent. i posted more pix back a page or so showing the jig items and pix i lacked.
heres another comment from builder.

Hi David,


Use the photos you think will help people. t's not that difficult to expand the tube section without form tools. I did it with hand tools and a torch back in the old days. The tools just make it quicker and easier.  It doesn't really need the stepped tool that holds the tube when the ball is pressed in. I've done it with and without that stepped tool. 

I'll send you the dimensions of that pipe. I can send you a pdf of the cone lengths etc. I can probably send a pdf of the pattern that others could have printed full size if they wanted to build that pipe. I'll make new drawings that have the proper taper to use an inlet that fits the flex used in that era. The current pattern has a slightly different taper to make it easier to fit the flangette on the end. I still flare the inlet end of the pipe with the ball bearing a little. The main thing is that they would need to remember that it's a true late 60's pipe and not some later and better design. I never had a tach, so I have NO idea of what rpm I obtained when running it and I was running enduros, so the tuning was for that application. Adjustments in length were made and then checked with a stop watch. That pipe might suck when used with a slipper clutch. I sold the pipes to Inglewood Kart Shop as well as Wilm's Kart shop. Their customers may have used them on sprint karts. I only sold pipes, not headers.

Try getting the cone pdfs printed at a place like Kinko's to see if they print correctly. 67cone1 and 2 are for the pipe using the bearing. The others are resized to allow for adding a straight inlet that will accept regular flex. It's smaller at the inlet end than the one for the bearing. If they print correctly then feel free to include them in the photo series. It would make it easier for anyone to build that same pipe. When rolled they should end up at 4 inches in diameter at the largest end. I think the long one is about 13.50 inches long and the short one is about 5.75. 

 

   

[doug tenney]

A lot of great insight and nicely written. Thanks for sharing with us.

...and only 10 lbs ain't too bad I'd say.

[Richard Stamile]

How do the original 2 shoe max torque clutches  work with this type of exhaust did they run
that type during 60s  when all the experimenting was on going  ??  when i had a wb 580  in
the day it had one of the aluminum  horns it was loud  and much faster then the Clinton motor
that i had before,  as a kid i was told its to noisy so i went to the local  Karts & Parts shop  the
owner sold me a can looked like a flask so i put this on  and it was so slow  and i was not happy
at all ,  being new i would not mind more discussion  on this   i am guessing you can have power
and quiet but you can't have both  and the clutch you are running  has to be compatible  with the
engine rev power curve  and  different exhaust systems  have varying effects  on the engine