Homelite Build thread

[sam bennett]

The delicate chrome bores could last the lifetime of a logger if well maintained. Sadly most weren't, and the process to repair or replate the bore is costly. I'm relatively certain you could get Nikasil instead of chrome from one of the specialty shops.
 
Here are some damaged bores.








Without measuring, the only exhaust difference apparent to the naked eye is shown below. There also appears to be a slightly larger exhaust port window on the new style. Transfers are supposed to be different as well, but my eyes can't tell the difference.
 
Old style.


NOS new style cylinder


This cylinder was modified by someone with more courage than myself.


Install the studs into clean bores.




Base gaskets are very common for the saws and can be had for a few dollars each. There is really no problem with putting a 92 gasket on an unmodified 82 case.

Please notice the 82 case above has been modified to accept the larger diameter 92 cylinder.
The other is an unmodified 82 case and needs to be sized to fit the 92 cylinder.

[sam bennett]

New rings with HL part number for the 2 3/16" bore. This would be typical on the 92cc kart engines.



The manuals have you gap the rings between .070 and .080. When placed in the bore, I've found almost all of the rings right in the middle at .075.

Install on the piston


Install the cylinder and secure with new 1/4-28 nuts lockwashers. There are no torque specs available for the case studs, so the standard torque should work fine.



Side plate or timing plate gasket. These too are available for a few dollars.


They are clocked for the bolt orientation. You could install with RTV if you want. The bolt holes in the case are blind.
 
I've powder coated the timing plate a bright silver.
---Originally the timing plate and intake manifold were likely treated by the DOW 9 process. This anodizing method used chromic acid to protect the magnesium.-- The color should be a greenish brown in most cases.

[sam bennett]

If you're going to use the big bore cylinder on an 82 block. You're going to have to remove some material. The OD of the cylinder is 1/8" larger than the stock 82 cylinder. Homelite suggests using the 92 base gasket and grind out that area. One of these 82s was professionally milled.
 
Here is the larger cylinder.



That low hanging area of the cylinder wall will also interfere with the stock timing plate. Homelite recommends removing some material. It doesn't take much to make it fit.


With the gasket 55049 in place (shown previously) you can secure the timing plate. You Homelite guys understand why I'm using SHCS instead of the silly washer-head slotted screws. I still have them all, but refuse to use them.

The size that works best is 10-32 X 5/8. I don't have torque specs, but used 80 inch pounds. I get really nervous torquing into magnesium.

[sam bennett]

Coils

The part number you're looking for is 55986-A



Back to the points box.
 
If you plan to use the kill switch, you'll need to attach the ground wire to the points post. The part number is 55990. Or, just whip one out with 2 ring terminals.


On the back side of the box use the felt seal. It's there to keep saw-dust out of the critical areas. There are a few versions. I believe the R82 took this style. The part number is 55989.



Some points boxes secure the coil ground on the back with a screw. The ground is very fragile. This box is set for a hybrid R95 built from some mixed saw parts.



I don't have a way of measuring capacitance, so I just have to trust the used and NOS condensers work until proven otherwise.



Here is the condenser part number



Do what the timing cover says and gap the points at .015" or .020 (according to the Hot-Rod manual). The points cover itself is .015" thick and works great to set the point gap.

Unlike the MC engines, you don't need to set the rotor gap because the coil mount is fixed.



I used 6-32 X 5/16 slotted FH screws to replace the same size Homelite screws on the retainer plate.
Instead of using the factory fillister head screws for the coil, I used 10-24 X 7/8 and 10-24 X 1/2 SHCS. Torqued to 80 inch pounds.
 
You should be able to turn it over and get a hot blue spark about 3/8" long.

[sam bennett]

I forget where I left off before the other site crashed, so I'll pick with starters.

Homelite used Fairbanks Morse starters. The NOS parts are getting harder to find, but there are tons of saws with good parts available.



They only differences between left and right starters are the way you wrap the flat spring, and where the roll pin is located for the rope guide. The red piece is wound for RH and the white is setup for LH.

There are some subtle differences in the posts as well, but doesn't affect the rotation.




For right hand operation wrap the rope this way.


For right hand operation wrap the wind the spring this way.



Place the starter pulley over the housing. Using the notch shown at 7 o'clock put at least 1.5 rotations on the pulley to preload the spring. I tie a knot to keep it under load when done. 

Here are the main types of starter handles and rope anchors. 
The one on the left is typical of the earlier saws and K82 engines.


 

 

 

The last part is to reassemble the friction engagement parts.


Follow the instructions here. The most important thing to remember is the engagement dogs on the friction assembly need to face the same direction as the starter rotation. There are sharpened teeth on the dogs which favor one direction only.

EDIT
Here are some helpful part numbers for starter parts.

Starter Clutch Friction shoes 58970
Recoil spring 56451-1. 
Pulley 56452.
Fan cover 5.25 diameter 56442. 
Starter Cup 56441-1.
Inner spring 56455.
Retaining washer (more than 1 type) 76436.
Rope inserts are 55937,58517,A-56081.
Rope is 55898.
Grip is wrong, but A-69962-B was an HL number.

[sam bennett]

Finally on to clutches. Below are relevant part numbers. 

Parts order for clutches. Rear Clutch cover (large washer), Clutch, thrust washer, inner race (bushing), drum, needle bearing, large washer, 3/8 fw, 3/8-24 flex lock.















Clutches.
Need 9/16” bore on all spiders.  55075-3, 55075-4, 55075-3A (770D).
Clutch Bushing 7/16” ID, 21/32” long and 21/32” OD.
Clutch Cover 56101-A 9/16” bore 56101-A. (707D, 600D, Zip, 770D.)
55659 Clutch Cover works for K82. 55660 thrust washer goes between spider and clutch drum

K82. Use 3 shoes only. Motor, back cover, spider, thin thrust, inner race, drum, washer, full flex lock.
Shoes 5-20 A-55692-A and 1A. 55076-1. Look at the width (don’t get 7/8”).

6 Shoe parts SW80, used A-58028.
Wiz 66, 55, 5-20 used A-55692. 775G used A-58028.
Inner race is 55661.
Spring is 55123-A, 55123-C.
Thrust washers are 55660-1. 55163.

707D clutch fits K92.
55123 spring (2).
55076-1 shoes (6).
55075-3 spider.
55660-1 thrust washer (1).  
56101-A rear clutch cover.

---

Jim Donovan came to the rescue by building me some new clutches. He takes the standard SS clutch with a blank hub and bores to size then broaches the Homelite keys.

  
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[sam bennett]

Eric A. has gone out of his way to make fiberglass reeds for the Homelite cages. Homelite cages are common and drilled for Tillotson HL series carbs. 
His work is beautiful and precise. I'll never go back to steel reeds. Thanks Eric!