Blitz Kart project - Printable Version +- Vintage Karting Forum (https://www.vintagekartforum.com) +-- Forum: Main forums (https://www.vintagekartforum.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=1) +--- Forum: General (https://www.vintagekartforum.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=2) +--- Thread: Blitz Kart project (/showthread.php?tid=1690) |
Blitz Kart project - Richard Stamile - 08-15-2017 [attachment=2110] [attachment=2110] since finding a Blitz kart with lots of holes in the frame but a good survivor with no broken weilds or bends i cut the pan out and and tig welded and carefully ground flush all the many holes drilled in the frame may be the result of many yard kart engines so now i am having a sheet metal shop make up a new pan I think i will weld in the pan rather then the tabs i see many here doing tabs i guess that is so if it gets banged up you can change it out, do they get beat up that much now ? i am at the stage now that i can put tabs in of course its not the original way it will be show/fun to get on the track with not looking to win races with or trailer queen here are some photo's Richard, RE: Blitz Kart project - steve welte - 08-15-2017 Good luck with your kart. The reason most go to tabs is so the frame will flex more when cornering leading to better handling. If you need strength in your kart like the first one i rebuilt then I welded the pan in to help with the ground off rails. A rule of thumb is that a kart with hard compound tires needs a flexable frame and a kart with soft compound tires needs a stiff frame. RE: Blitz Kart project - Jim Waltz - 08-15-2017 Nice work, Richard. RE: Blitz Kart project - doug tenney - 08-16-2017 On a Blitz, the pan is not flat as on other karts, so a tabbed pan would look very strange, IMHO. RE: Blitz Kart project - Richard Stamile - 08-16-2017 (08-15-2017, 09:22 PM)steve welte Wrote: Good luck with your kart. The reason most go to tabs is so the frame will flex more when cornering leading to better handling. If you need strength in your kart like the first one i rebuilt then I welded the pan in to help with the ground off rails. A rule of thumb is that a kart with hard compound tires needs a flexable frame and a kart with soft compound tires needs a stiff frame. Steve i think i will go with 18 gauge on the pan the original was 20 gauge keeping weight down must have been on there mind cause this kart came with an aluminum live axle not sure if i want use aluminum the brake and wheels were so frozen i had to cut it apart undo everything, your thoughts on aluminum verses steel since a few days ago i watched your excellent video building ally kat kart (08-16-2017, 03:30 AM)doug tenney Wrote: On a Blitz, the pan is not flat as on other karts, so a tabbed pan would look very strange, IMHO. i was thinking the same its a pan that's deep where the seat is and tapering to almost but not flat to the front axle RE: Blitz Kart project - Jim Waltz - 08-16-2017 For myself, I don't worry too much about weight on a vintage kart. My personal power to weight ratio is so bad, nothing I do on the kart is going to have a significant effect in any event. Aluminum axles are notorious for bending if you have a little "off" or a bump, so it's steel for me all the way. I have a similar floor/seat pan situation on my Kalifornia Nykes. The First Edition (complete and on the track) still had a well-intact pan, so I left it as is. You can see this on the Member Colletions page here on the Forum. The Second Edition (barely started with resto) has the front portion of the pan missing, so I will probably go with a tab-mounted floor pan, either aluminum or stainless. Then I will add a little reinforcement of the welded seat pan at about the location of the steering hoop. Forward of that the pan is flat, so I will end up with a combination of welded seat pan and bolted in floor pan. Thoughts for your consideration...... RE: Blitz Kart project - ted johnson - 08-16-2017 Jimmy, since I don't have the strength anymore that I once had, low weight is very important to me. I always run aluminum pans and axles, but my axles are ONLY 7075 T6 alloy, as they're much stronger than 6061. TJ RE: Blitz Kart project - steve welte - 08-16-2017 We run 7075 alum axles on some of our karts. We decide where the keys need to be and only have a key way in that spot. Much more strength. That is for singles only that have a wide rear hoop. RE: Blitz Kart project - Richard Stamile - 08-16-2017 (08-16-2017, 04:00 PM)steve welte Wrote: We run 7075 alum axles on some of our karts. We decide where the keys need to be and only have a key way in that spot. Much more strength. That is for singles only that have a wide rear hoop.Steve that sounds like something i could do here buy 7570 and only mill keys where you need them step the ends down to .750 and thread it RE: Blitz Kart project - ted johnson - 08-16-2017 Be sure to use only precision ground shafting. Most ordinary round stock will have to be turned end to end to fit thru bearings. McMaster 9063K21 is precision ground stock. It fits right thru bearings smoothly. I have a file for a 36" axle, half the keyway is on one side, half on the opposite side. Your machinist can position the keyslots as you prefer. I've been running them for several years with no problems. If you want the PDF, PM me with your email address. Ted |