Vintage Karting Forum

A few weeks ago I got a new block and 5 sets of rings from White Wolf parts. Today I saw pictures of K precision honing rows of new rods for White wolf parts. That is a good sign.

I mis spoke on who owns these rods. More at a later date but rods will soon be available.

Steve, most of us aren't nearly as worried about getting rods as we are about getting the MP159 alloy rod screws going again. Ted

i think patience is key here.
seems someone is actually ramping up production for the 820 part's.
 hopefully the conn rod bolt problem will be resolved in the process. 

Cannot say, Dave. The people who used to make the Bonbright screws will no longer make them. I've seen no other quality screw that will replace them. The Unbrako screws are 10KSI stronger than other brands, but some folks balk at buying screws not made in the US. The old issue remains, even with the Unbrako. One use, then toss them. I have no problem doing that but it seems some others do. I emailed Carrillo to see if they would give me the manufacturer of their MP alloy screws. If they will, I will contact the manufacturer. Ted

ARP in Santa Paula was willing to make rod bolts to fit the WB's and Mc's, but the kart guys I talked and emailed with complained about the cost.  ARP was going to charge approximately $22 - $25 per bolt when made at least 500 at a time. They initially thought they'd be less expensive, but  they were basing that on their already having tooling on hand and the material to make them. Part way into the project they realized that none of their existing tooling could make the bolts needed. I spent quite a bit of time with the engineers at ARP about the bolts. After the vintage guys response or lack of, I told ARP to not do any more work on the project. I wasn't selling any bolts, I just worked with ARP to see if the project was feasible and I was going to be the contact. They'd probably still be willing to do them if enough guys commit to a deposit for them. Hopefully, they saved their info. If someone wants to follow up with them, I'll go to see ARP about the bolts. Someone besides me will have to take care of the deposits, etc. I already spent enough time on it just to have most of the guys wanting them, deciding that the ARP bolts cost too much.

Steve, I talked to ARP a couple years ago with the same lack of enthusiasm. We can't blame them. There are few enough of us, the virus has screwed things up, (thank you, china), and our ranks get thinner every year.
Vintage kart guys I know are notoriously cheap! I have had the beautiful n1ke with the Libberton 610, Dyna Drive gearbox and oil housing for the clutch for sale, and everybody I've talked to says my price is too high. Fine! I will just keep it here. I am willing to pay a premium for GOOD rod screws. I paid for them for years from Dave Bonbright. Dave had to pay through the nose to get them made. It is going to get worse, far worse. Good luck with everything. Ted

the problem was when we were talking with Michael and ARP it wasn't about being cheap but when the amount got to about $20,000 we were out. for my part at the time i was in for about a $5000.00 investment. Others were willing to spend on the project but we never got to a $10,000 mark. Now at this time I'm out completely out. My karting years like many others is sliding away. I have enough stuff to run out my time so it becomes an issue for someone younger. Are we sure at this point a k presesion or Bennett bolt won't do the trick. They have both been redesigned. A 101 rod bolt goes in a WB rod 1 1/2 threads further than in a mac rod. It's not as long as a WB rod bolt but rule of thumb is for a bolt this size, length is to be 1 1/2 times the dia of the bolt. Beyond that there is no gain in having the bolt thread in further. To use the 101 rod bolt you have to modify your tool. i have done that. Now let me say that bolt is also in short supply but i know for myself I have taken care of that problem. At the end of the day I can't financially spend more on karting. I have invested a lot and the cookie jar has gone empty. We also have the Mac piston problem. I have continued to say "people need to realize others aren't going to spend their money to sit on product and wait for one to need one item and order it. when product becomes avail. one has to decided what you are going to need in a reasonable time frame and money availability and become their own parts supplier and stock what you are going to need. Not hoarding but being reasonable about keeping yourself running.

Amen, Steve! None of us are getting younger, and most of us can't spend big bucks on a totally speculative product. I'm still interested in the K Precision screw, if it has been re-engineered. The first run did not impress. Unfortunately, we are such small potatoes as a group that you can't seem to even get to talk to the Bennetts about their screws. I want to know everything about those. Material, tensile strength and the whole ball of wax. The last thing anyone wants is to risk your $1000 engine block and an un-buyable piston to an unknown screw.  Using the 101 screw involves the same issues as using the first generation of the Bonbright MP159 screws. Reduce the diameter of the nose of your socket and maybe ream out the counterbore in the rod cap. I had no clue as to how to do this trick, but Mr. Bonbright said just get a cartridge roll and have at it. I have ONE pair of the first generation screws left. I doubt that the use of clean, unrusted 101 screws would cause any problem at all. I used to turn my square-port open 101's at ungodly RPM. Both ended up as toast, but I never proved that it was rod bolt failure. Anyhow, we all appreciate your research efforts, Steve.
BTW, 1-1/2 screw diameters of thread engagement was what we used for NASA, so it's good enough for me! Ted